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Try playing with the width coil and horizontal positioning.

I wish I could recall where I found that - sorry!

But only when used with an adapter, correct?

Waiting patiently for kits to become available... Nice work!

I have a PowerCache that looks like the topmost photo on the image below. There's an identifier on the back just above the connector: 01-P31UV-001P Is this board compatible with an SE/30? It's working fine in my IIci, but I'd love to use it with one of my SE/30s.

I've lost count of the compact macs I've received with upper corners broken during transit.

Speaker polarity is irrelevant to functionality. If it makes you feel better, connect the red wire to '+' on the speaker.

I think the real answer is a standard PCB size (i.e. too small for proper fit in the vintage sockets) with a shim soldered to one side.

Absolutely. Something just plain gets out of tolerance. In my case the socket looks slightly bowed in the horizontal plain. The DDB SIMM is rigid enough to pull it into alignment. The BMOW SIMM flexes with it.

+1 on Eric Woo. I've bought a handful of CPUs from him and every one was gen-u-ine.

There's nothing magic about the metal clip sockets. I have an SE/30 that simply will not work reliably with a BMOW Rom SIMM, even after bending the clips in a bit. That helped, but it still crashed intermittently. I tried building up the contacts with solder. Again it helped a bit but not...

Absolutely it's possible. I'm running an LCIII in that manner (ZuluSCSI rather than Blue, but Asante SC interface works the same way).

Thanks for the clarification. But, on the bright side, I've run into a fair number of PALs with intact security fuses. One can always hope.

Has anyone thrown the PLD against a DuPAL?

+1 on a vinegar soak! I was able to restore a horribly battery-bombed Lisa 2/5 by starting with a 2-day soak of the back plane. Connectors were fuzzy green on the way in, but bright and shiny on the way out.

The Mouser part is an 84-pin PLCC socket and thus should be the correct replacement part. It's incredibly easy to yank out via barrels when attempting to desolder the old part as a unit. If I were you I'd consider crushing the old socket with pliers to the point where you can pull the pins...

Doesn't one of the 68k Mac diagnostic suites check PRAM? I know I've seen it recently, but cannot recall which application I was running.

You've piqued my curiousity! When my bench is clear I'll see what I can dial in with the RGB-HDMI 300A. It should be able to do better than that.

In my experience, the RGB-HDMI 300A will sync to just about anything with enough twiddling. Absolutely the best bargain in vintage computer scan converters (I have 5 of them). FYI: The built-in preset save/restore is only for output resolution. You need an attached PC running their control...

Thanks! Might want a couple of photos on your Ko-fi page.