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To reiterate what I said in our email dialog, I would once again like to say you are to be commended on bringing that machine back to life, @JC8080!  I did offer some advice, but you got your hands dirty and maintained the determination and passion to get the job done.  You also did a lot of...

Supplementing the excellent thoughts of @aeberbach, I do find it interesting that such a large capacitance was used in the first place.  The difference between 47µF and 2200µF is huge.  When we talk about "ripple" in this particular case (rising and falling voltage), we are most likely talking...

Thank you for the extra analysis.  I think that adds something important to this discussion, and nothing I'm about to say in any way undermines that. In terms of low-resistance paths, C10 sees incoming +12V from the PSU while C9 sees -12V from the PSU, while C3 & C4 see 11V or so (in...

Your card looks quite similar to my card, just that yours lacks the heatsink.  There must be a bad chip on your card.

Could you post a photo of the front and back of your Turbo040 card?

Below is some of the information I provide in the text description under my General Advice video... Rather than give you a Mouser Cart for the SE/30 motherboard, I instead provide links below to individual capacitors on Mouser. That gives you freedom to choose a Can-shaped capacitor for a stock...

A lot of people ask the same question when it comes to the fluid-filled electrolytic capacitors on computer parts that "most people" refuse to recap, and yet I made an 800K Floppy Drive Recapping video about that because you really do need to recap those drives too even though they aren't...

Thank you for your kind words, @ttb. Thank you @ttb & @ScutBoy for correctly pointing out that the 2 Axial caps are the Nichicon VX caps in that Tantalum kit.  I have just added a new temporary Comment under my video to announce the formal correction along with my apology for the foolish...

Normally, the higher the voltage rating the lower the ESR unless the Hour/Life rating is very high, in which case the ESR could be the same or higher than lower voltage rated capacitors. Solid Tantalum should have a slightly lower ESR than the stock capacitors but I wouldn't say it is...

All capacitors have resistivity called ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance).  That is not exclusive to Tantalums.  In fact, Tantalum capacitors have a STABLE ESR across their entire working temperature range.  Fluid-filled Aluminum Electrolytic capacitors like you find on the stock SE/30...

Choosing a capacitor of any type that has a higher voltage rating than your stock capacitor is actually a benefit in terms of ESR.  The higher voltage rating usually ensures a lower ESR.  However, if you choose a high Hour-rating, then your ESR usually is a bit higher (which is less desirable)...

Well, I am not about to defend component manufacturers for doing what they do because I too would prefer more clarity for the layman when it comes to specifications, but the manufacturers of these components are targeting engineers who are "supposed to know these things" rather than the layman...

SMD components are more sensitive to temperature and applied heat duration than thru-hole components due to the physical size of the components (larger components handle heat better) and the fact that thru-hole types keep the heat further from the main body of the component than SMD types.  ...

Thank you for your kind words!  And thanks again for your help in testing in that other thread!

First, I'd like to thank @ttb, @aeberbach and others who contributed to my separate thread on SE/30 SONY Chip Voltages.  The conclusion of that thread is that while most of the 47uF capacitors on the motherboard see only 5v, there are 4 which see about 12V.  That is actually a problem for those...

I decided to solder some test wires to UB10-pin10 (capacitor C3), UB11-pin10 (C4), Pin-15 (C5, both chips are tied together here), C9 & C10.  Below are my measurements and a short video of the pin-10 testing. Speaker was the MacEffects 8Ω. C5: 5v constantly, with or without sound, even...

Thanks for mentioning that, Mark. In light of the current market charging $149 per unit, even a $99 per unit price tag would be a rich blessing indeed!  Another consideration is the fact that the current units being sold are no doubt "new, old stock." That means they are not being produced but...

Well, the only two compatible flybacks currently sold that I know of, which are most likely "new, old stock" (very old, probably), are these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/157-026C-Flyback-157026C-Replaces-Apple-HR-42031/121655780759 https://www.donberg.ie/descript/h/hr_42031.htm "Good luck"...

@netbeui Thank you for your question, and I am sorry I missed your PM.  That was sent at a time when email notifications were dead on this forum, so I never got alerted to it.  I do see your PM now though.   I replaced a flyback with the same broken bar as yours, shown at 39:14 in my video...