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Anyone know if China is the only place to buy these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Floppy-Disc-Drive-Emulator-with-Disk-ii-interface-for-Apple-ii-iie-iic-Laser128/143672823651 Who designed these?  Where is the official store? I need to get a SD disk drive card.

This is what my custom PSU looks like inside :)

So I'm going to get these and see if they work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CCLXC15

So bought a working board of the same model. I went through and replace all chips one at a time till I found the bad one. It wasn't a bad ROM FYI. Is this a memory controller chip?  Picture shows good chip from other board but thats where the bad one was. Funny thing is its the LAST chip I...

O awesome, didn't know you could replace all ROMs with just the first slot. I'll get that thing, tnx!

So read you only need the F8 rom to use ASM. I removed every rom but the F8 ram and the same issue happens. Remove the F8 rom as its block garbage.  So it might be the "341-0020-00" / F8 ROM. But I can't find a 3rd or first party one anywhere. EDIT: ok looks like I found one...

Do you have a link?  I can't seem to find 3rd party solutions when doing google searches.

Well pretty sure its not RAM as both original ram and new ram produce the same result. What ROM chips should be replaced or investigated first?  Sucks they're so expensive.  Are there new 3rd party ROMs for Apple II+ ?

Just continuing this thread here: 

Ok so maybe people can help me identify the voltages on these caps, if they differ at all.  Are they all 50v? I now replaced all the electrolytic caps & transistors on the board and one of the ceramic ones. Also have a single row of NEW memory. Using old memory also doesn't change...

Thanks.  Now I have white vertical lines. So maybe its some bad ram. Reset all chips so replacing ram will be next.

So have an Apple II+ I'm trying to get working. The issue I'm running into is the screen is PURE WHITE.  But why?  Its like the CPU is idle doing nothing. #1 I built a new PSU using a PICO & 1705 voltage regulator to get -5v. (All voltages test correct) #2 I replaced the 3904 transistors...

100nf = 100,000pf (aka 104) = 0.1uf So the cap I got off amazon is correct

That seems wrong: https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-number-104-on-a-ceramic-capacitor If they measure in pF wouldn't this be 0.1 uF

Can someone tell me what ceramic cap spec from the image below is. (In the red square). I'm thinking I may have the same issue as this guy: https://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/2009-03-29-re-repairing-an-apple-II-plus-clone.htm Where that cap is bad as the voltage around 1v and that guy...

What would be really useful is to rule out a bad CPU or RAM (more likely on-board RAM). My guess is those crap PSU's that came with these caused some kind of stress somewhere. Another observation is my motherboard that does work has a non-working SCSI. Even re-cap didn't fix that. You also...

I already recapped it.

Update. I ended up having issues with PICO PSU's even a 300w one. Maybe the caps don't hold enough juice but only my 500w standard ATX PSU keeps the computer 100% stable all the time. Even a 250w 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ITX PSU has stability issues after a...

Also here is a picture of the heatsink I used on the CPU. Just some extra love.

A long overdue update. My bad motherboard still has the bad chime sound after replacing its 40mhz crystal oscillator. My good motherboard (besides the SCSI not working [so it boots from the Mac ROM-inator II]) I replaced with a PICO PSU I shoved in the original PSU metal box. So now its...