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The accelerator is already using the onboard RAM (not the motherboard RAM) so it's already running at top speed. This is evident as I can run with only 1MB on the motherboard but it still reports 4MB (ie the accelerator RAM) plus I can tell just from the speed it's running at it is using the RAM...

Thanks for this - For clarity, when you say you could use Compact Virtual after swapping to a full 030, does that mean that: a) You could then use Virtual to create a swap file on your hard disk to use (slow) virtual memory; or b) Your accelerator began to report > 4MB of physically installed...

I did. When opening the CDEV it it says no MMU or 68040 and it doesn’t load at boot (has an X through it)

I am curious to know what would happen if I did replace the EC with a full 030. My gut is that I would then be able to use Connectix virtual to use disk based virtual memory but that the accelerator still wouldn’t see the any more physical memory, so I wouldn’t be much further ahead than I am...

As an update, I tried the TW2340 in a different Mac Classic, and tried different 4x4MB SIMMs. Same issue, it only shows 4MB of RAM installed. It would be very interesting to read the manual for this card (TW1340 or TW2340) if anybody has a copy

Thanks. The current issue im having is it never reports more than 4mb even though there is 16mb installed on the accelerator. So potentially a different issue. It seems like your accelerator actually showed 16mb as being physically installed just not usable (ie in the control panel info screen)?

I recently acquired an Applied Engineering TW2340 accelerator for the Macintosh Classic (40mhz 68EC030 with FPU and SIMM sockets). Sales materials on the accelerator available here (https://www.savagetaylor.com/2022/06/07/68k-accelerators-fpus-and-other-cpus/) indicate it does NOT support...

Ha! You can ignore this. I subsequently found your sale post and see you sold the accelerator.

Hi @jmacz I received and installed a TW2340 accelerator (a cousin of your 1340, but designed for the Macintosh Classic). I have tried multiple system software versions and I have tried both the Warp 030 v1.5 control panel (which I'm assuming is what you've referred to as the Transwarp 030...

That's awesome! Thanks for continuing to develop this - my Hootswitch works great and makes switching between my vintage Macs seamless!

Geez! Give the guy a break here. Nothing he said was offensive.

Maycintosh would have been way better!!

Sorry, I meant diagonally! Long day!

I just tried mine and didn't notice anything weird. I moved the mouse vertically and it was quite smooth. That was with an Apple made in Malaysia mouse. @mfinn it might be worth trying to upgrade to the newest firmware. I had flashed your unit with a hybrid firmware that was slightly older...

Awesome! I am looking forward to giving this a try!

I am using Windows to connect the Hootswitch to monitor what's happening with a terminal. With the new firmware Windows complains that there is a problem with the USB device, the RP2040 doesn't properly show up in device manager and no comm port becomes available. So I'm using a bit of a...

I had a somewhat similar issue in a classic as well. I can't recall all the specifics but I do remember that probing the crystal it with my oscilloscope probe caused the clock to start running. It seems that these circuits are very sensitive to impedance (or maybe capacitance - I can't recall...

Sorry for the multiple posts here - The intermittent problem with the Classic keyboard was my fault. I put a DBG statement in at what must have been a timing sensitive point. I removed that and now it seems to work fine. Out of curiosity, my understanding is that keyboards always present...

I tried my Macintosh Classic keyboard and it did not work. I also realized that the latest firmware (uploaded here and on GitHub) doesn't seem to allow for USB debugging - when I plug the Hootswitch with the new firmware in, my computer can't setup a USB com port. * I used the 2024b hardware...

As a further follow-up, 12V power is working by jumpering the DC in (-) to the negative pin of the C1. I first tried jumpering it to the negative pin of J8 but for some reason that didn't work, although I think it should have so I may have done something dumb (i.e. was my wall wart plugged in?)...