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One thing that’s a big failure point is the plastics! Have you figures out the gentlest way to disassemble them? I have one in pieces that I was hoping to use to learn how to open my intact example…

That (a guide) would be really fantastic, actually... I've made this kind of thing work in the past but it's always felt a bit cobbled-together...

Interesting as well to see this early mouse with a "Lisa"-style plug and no thumbscrews:

Yes, those scans were high-quality enough to see at least two examples of a Twiggy Mac!

So I had this replacement 3.6v cell ready to go: ...when I thought, hmm — the GatorBox’s circuit board looks like it was designed to accommodate a coin cell: Although a little trim is required on the plastic holder to accommodate JP05, it does indeed fit: I think this’ll result in 37%...

I believe this to be a Sonnet BST-50FB (100/50Mhz Quadra/Centris 660AV, 700, 900). The part number on the board (obscured by the cable) is 660-700 REV.1. I acquired it knowing there would be pin damage... ...and pin damage there is: I'd like to try de-soldering the individual pin...

Apologies that I don't quite know whether to post this in the TashTalk thread, the TashRouter thread, or here. I have a TashTalk hat running on the Raspberry Pi that runs the latest version of Netatalk, 4.3.2. Would it be best practice to continue to use the tap and python script method...

One more thing: releasing the motherboard to desolder the old battery revealed more epic bodge wires:

Let’s desolder that guy and see what we’re dealing with: The motherboard has two sets of holes for mounting, so you have some flexibility for replacement. Oddly the Maxell I found had a kind of solder tab on the negative post and an axial on the positive, which was then bent 90°. I’ll...

Let’s try to document the original AC adaptor as it’s a bit weird. The GatorBox requires a Class 2 transformer that can deliver 16 volts of AC power at 40 watts. Don‘t ask me what I paid for this adapter, or more probably, what I paid for the “Cayman” label on it… I measured the AC output...

I wonder how transferable all these great RackMacs are into the 10" form factor? Some homelab folks such as Jeff Geerling have been building community support for this not-quite-a-standard: https://mini-rack.jeffgeerling.com/ One mainstream provider of the basic 10" rack is DeskPi, who do 4U...

Unlike the newer model in @cheesestraws' thread, this earlier 1990 device holds a few modular surprises. Let's start off with a glamour shot: However, Strong Admonitions™ in the user manual warn against use in this orientation, despite how tempting it is for use in a rack. Luckily mine...

These used to be pretty easy to find, but I think have gotten much harder since Androda got out of the distribution business.. OneGeekArmy's EU-based site has a great price and even an adapter mount option, but for understandable reasons does not ship to the USA. Other options include a bunch...

Yep! Like 1/3rd of a 13W3 as it’s only mono. :)

Huh, that is interesting -- could depend on the version of the AppleShare client as well, I suppose?

This seems as good a place as any to link to this old blog post I wrote -- any corrections to it are welcome! -- if only to be able to re-use this image :)

Oh hey, I have a few Marcos that I've been meaning to investigate/restore. Was thinking of getting a battery spot-welder eventually, although of course the batterypack may be impossible to open without destroying it. With the rise of software-defined radios, I wonder how far off we are from...

Great documentation! Did you replace that one capacitor in the main keyboard? I did on mine just because I was in there…

File this under "Inappropriate monitors for a Mac LC": (In fairness, there's a barely-visible stand supporting the jumbo monitor base, but still...) :)

Let's see, if I recall correctly that (internal) connector might not be keyed. Is it possible it was plugged in the wrong way?