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Also, here's rev 2 of the enclosure. The pins were moved in .5mm on either side, the holes increased in diameter and the front pin reduced in z 1mm. They now come together well, stay put and if you're gentle and lucky you can separate them without breaking the pins.

@SuperSVGA Have you already posted your ROM dumps somewhere?

I got some AT27C010-70JU-T EPROM's to burn and installed minipro to program them on a Mac with a TL866II+ programmer. Using the volume 4 binary from this thread, I'm getting this.. minipro -p AT27C010@PLCC32 -w TechStep_CPU_Tests_VolumeIV_v1.0.bin Found TL866II+ 04.2.128 (0x280) VPP=13V...

Here are labels for the carts. Anyone know the best way to reproduce these as durable nice-quality decals? Like maybe print on sticker paper and then laminate? For the model, I moved the posts in 0.5mm on either side and increased the hole diameter to 2.1mm. It's printing now. Hopefully that'll...

I'm still tinkering with the posts and holes. Will share a revision model when I've got it 100%.

Version 2 geometry works. Just need to tweak the press fit dims to better cope with imprecise 3D printing. Regardless, the enclosure did come together and fits into the TechStep just fine.

@jajan547 I'm recreating the labels too. Can you post some high quality photos of the Volumes 2-4. Please position the carts as level as possible and use the reticle on your phone to make sure it's level too. I'm trying to nail the kerning as closely as possible to the originals. These will...

First try was a bit off, but I'm close. Printing a revision now.

And to clarify, 1 M-bit can work fine with any ROM? Would AT27C010-70JU-T work for all? There's decent stock of those on Mouser at the moment.

I fixed some geometry on the top enclosure and made the lower enclosure too. I even added a little Easter egg. I'll try to print these out in the next day or two to see if they work.

Also I built a Mouser cart for everything except the 512K-bit EPROMs (is there a modern replacement?). https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=b06767472b @SuperSVGA Can you double-check that I have the right components in there?

Thanks for the info! Also, what programer and adapter(s) are you using to program the PLCCs and/or SMD chips? Lastly, I drafted the top enclosure. I'll try to get the bottom done today too and do a test print shortly after.

@jajan547 and @SuperSVGA incredible work here. Thank you for doing this! Did you also dump the X25C02P ROMs or do those just work off the shelf as is?

Thanks :)

IIRC @brayne recently ran into a similar problem and troubleshot it down to a bad FPU. He has a video covering how to disable the FPU in order to confirm the issue, but I'm not sure which it is. Maybe he'll remember :)

@cruff not sure what is expected, but here are the various pins you mentioned with just system power on. Should RX/TR be doing anything while the system is idle? Pin 23 PCLK Pin 13 RTxCA Pin 32 RTxCB Pin 15 TRxCA Pin 30 TRxCB

I just got a 2400c with melty rubber too. I was thinking I could 3D print a mold and then fill it with something like Plastidip to make new bumpers. Or is there a better craft/hobby rubber that would work better?

@cruff would replacing the IC be the best next step?

I noticed the sound on this one was also really quiet. I replaced all the 22uf and 1uf caps on the MLB, but the volume of the power-on beep didn't change and the self test still fails with 06010000.

Thanks! I'll give this a shot. I tried connecting a known good Apple portrait display to it, but it didn't get video and prevented the SE/30 from booting. Perhaps the drivers will help.