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Hey guys!
I've just finalised my setup Mac-wise pretty much ... I need some suggestions for software.
Power Mac 5500 with a 400MHz G3 upgrade running OS 8.6 - I'd like 8.6 or 8.1-era software on this
(Also, my Colour Classic running 7.1.1 (7 Pro) needs a Recipe Manager, preferably hypercard...
Hi guys. I have here an expansion card. From what I can make out it has an Interface Controller of some sort and a bunch of discrete logic. I'm guessing homebrew or hobbyist kit by the solder job, the latter most likely by the lettering on the component side done in tinned copper ...
The cable...
Neither. I'm saying that one of the core advantages of NetBSD is that it makes good use of older hardware while providing a modern, stable OS. With a 68060, you have enough raw power to throw at the problem that you can run a suitably contemporary Mac OS and it will be "snappy" - 7.6.1 on a...
... Imagine that. A Quadra 405 which kicks the pants off the early Power Macs performance-wise running system 7 ... and using the beating heart of one of the most advanced pure CISC microprocessors ever built!
I honestly suspect that NetBSD would be a waste on such a machine - System 7.6.1 all...
Oh man, would you be willing to send the G4 Dual 500 module (from the deadPSU unit) over here for my GigE? :p (It might speed my system up a bit ;) )
(or, alternatively, what price would you sell it for...) :p
Actually register this is on indefinite hiatus. I had enough parts to rebuild a virgin SE/30 left, and have done so to trade a fellow soldier for a IIci.
A better bet would be to use a laptop SCSI drive. At any rate the SE/30 wouldn't be able to take advantage of the higher speeds of a...
Ok, one more slight problem.
A pixel to the left of the raster appears to be worth two to the right... that is to say as I go left individual pixels get fatter, so looking to the left the screen looks slightly overwide and looking to the right, the icons look compressed - I end up with...
You may find that the wires used to wind small transformers / motor stators / TV tube yokes may work - it's enamelled magnet wire, and it has good insulation, high conductivity, and is easy to handle.
This just in: It works.
The original L2 and L3 are functional, so it was indeed C15. Thanks guys, you're the best. <3
Now the SE/30 I was rebuilding is shipshape, time to start installing its complement of software! :D
Good thing my assortment of resistors are metal-film 1% then - I always test them before use anyhow, so I'll throw it into my maths.
I'll elect to wait for your return from work - I can use the C15 from my other board until I find out what's going on at least. If this C15 really is FUBAR as the...
Osgeld, apologies. Tone is difficult to read on the internet and I misread you as being somewhat snarky.
I do remember some time ago being taught about measuring capacitance using a resistor and stop-clock, in fact this explains why there are now kits that basically just do LC measurement with...
I have a multimeter, it just doesn't have an inbuilt Cx/Lx test circuit. I implied the presence of one when I gave the reading of R19 as 221.4R :)
I will replace C15 and reflow L2 and L3, if it will help. I was sincerely hoping at least it wasn't the replacement caps I put in - It would be...
Osgeld: You're not helping.
I didn't say I couldn't order it. I can. And I'm not in the US, as you could see if you read my Location in my little sidebar thingy on the post. It's just that I have no way of doing so until at least next Thursday, and I would prefer to isolate the problem before...
L2 - I'm not sure how I'd fix that if it were broken, but I think it's ok.
R19 is fine.
C15 is original, I have no way of testing it and no way of replacing it short of wrecking a known working board to donate the part.
I don't have one of those multimeters that can check...
My SE/30 is currently in the process of an overhaul and return to stock condition - this includes returning its original analogue board to it, instead of having used the SE's analogue board as a stop-gap.
I've replaced the SMPSU unit and it's functioning just fine - however the horizontal sweep...
Use a 1.5mm flat screwdriver with a long thin shaft, and grab the handle with snub-nosed pliers to get enough torque to do the initial unscrewing.
Haven't damaged a mac yet by doing that, doubt I ever will.
The power connector on the bottom isn't stuck in place. It's on a metal frame - you'll note that to the sides of the mating molex connector there are two circular pins with flaps on them - like so
ø[ ]ø
If you grab the flaps on the side with pliers you can force those little circular...
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