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If the 240v board has that large 3.9uf, 35v capacitor right before the CRT connection, what did you replace it with? I did some digging around when I recapped my Plus' analog board last week (120v), and I discovered that it needed to be a nonpolar capacitor, and so I replaced it with a 3.9uf...
Hah - those are the exact cables I just bought. Funny. As for the stripes, yes AFAIK, because it was showing a sad Mac previously. I haven't unsoldered it to check that it still does it, but I assume it would.
Well, I've shorted the connection, but although it's not supposed to display any video as per the instructions, I get these lines.
I'm looking into how to set up the OS X terminal to get the correct settings and see if the classic is sending anything via serial.
Edit: I figured out the...
I do. I've got a syringe of the no-clean stuff everyone recommends.
On the topic of soldering, though, I don't quite understand where those 10/11 spots are on the board. I was going to use the burn-in connector anyway, since I agree it would be easier.
Well, I've bought a USB to 8 pin mini-din adapter, and I suppose I'll give it a shot when I get that cable.
As for the pin that needs to be grounded, is it this one?:
If so, do I just need to run a wire from it to some ground plane?
That seems pretty involved. How do I see and send those serial commands? I have an 8 pin mini-din cable and a couple other older Macs, if I need to connect it to another and use something like Zterm to access it I could probably manage that.
The problem might be this general area, but as far as I can tell all the traces have proper continuity (I've done quite a bit of prodding here):
Specifically, it might be that one of the traces from the ROM to the CPU is messed up, if that code is indeed something about illegal ROM...
It chimes, there's a gray screen for just a fraction of a moment (visible when the display is already warm from a previous power cycle), and then the sad mac appears.
Yup. Multiple resets, unplugged the fan, unplugged the floppy, same result.
Also, if anyone was wondering, the short on the...
All right, I have an update. I've changed out all the caps on the analog board, installed NEW tantalum caps on the logic board, and hooked everything up.
The good news: We have a chime, the display works, and something seems to be going on.
The bad news: Sad mac. Code 0000 000F 0000 000A. IIRC...
ok, now this is pretty frickin' gross. You're telling me these electrolytic fluid-soaked power cables had a short? insanity.
Edit: I followed the guide for which capacitors to buy from RecapAMac and, although I wasn't able to see it because of the angle, it turns out that the 470uf 50v...
An update to this-- I bought and received both the caps from Mouser as well as the solder sucker recommended to me earlier in the thread. I will get the recap done either today or tomorrow, and then post results.
I have a very similar issue with my Macintosh Classic, and have a thread going here documenting my process of trying to fix it. I'm waiting for the AB capacitors to come from Mouser at the moment, and will be posting the results there. Hopefully we can get our Macs fixed!
Yup, that's what I'm going for. I haven't bought any diodes or anything yet, just caps. I have an SE and a plus, but not another Classic. The caps are coming tomorrow, and I'm going to do the lightbulb test after the recap. I have the whole thing apart at the moment so I can't quite test it now.
I've had no issues with my Floppy Emu HD20 images being read by mini vMac using an sd card adapter. I've also taken those same images, plopped them on a blueSCSI, and run them in my old machines that way. With mini vMac you can boot into the hard disk image, load up whatever floppy images you...
I'll take a look at that, might need it because I remember the last time I had to mess with larger thru-hole components, and that was a royal PITA with just an iron and wick.
Well, I safely discharged the CRT, took out the analog board, and... eugh, yeah, that's a lot of corrosion Pretty sure it's mostly from the battery, but there's plenty of capacitor goop I can see between the caps on the board, too. Looks like a definite analog board recap. Welp, guess I'm paying...
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