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Will shoot you a PM, I'm still curious about repairing this one though if possible as well.

Looks like I should probably be on doing this soon. I've a cs/117 and c/133 both in pretty good condition but out of curiosity I had them out tonight and the c/133 has some line ghosting in the LCD and the contrast switch does... weird things sometimes.

I did give them a quick go-over with Deoxit (tiny nail polish style brush one).

Little update here... I haven't had a lot of time to mess with the card, ended up switching the Q700+601 over to Mac OS 8.1 and was getting that set up (seems much nicer with the PPC card than 7.6.1). I popped the card back in last night and while in 8.1... I don't get the weird desktop picture...

Just giving this a little bump in case anyone can give me any direction on figuring out a replacement for this, would love to get the drive back to a healthy condition.

So I decided to open up my Apple CD300 to get around to recapping it. The drive was working fine previous to opening it, but I discovered this: Anyone know where I can find some schematics or somehow find the value of that fried diode? Referencing Bruce's images tells me that it's D402. Only...

Just gave another good inspection to all the pins on the various chip sets, including that one, everything looks good as far as I can tell without a microscope.

Ok deeper testing... continued to poke and prod everything with my finger and couldn't get anything to change. The video being washed out at 1024x768 seems to be a higher than 60hz refresh thing. Lower res can do it too if I select one using a higher refresh, though 1024 will do it at 60hz also...

What should I expect to occur when pressing chips when I find "the one"?

Ok removed RAMDAC and cleaned with deoxit (as well as the socket) and re-inserted, no change.

Annoyingly now I can't get it to do it to poke chips while it's goofy... the logo was also less corrupted this time... and it "passed" tech tool pro vram tests (though I did see some weird color stuff on one I don't think was normal). Still fails the Mac Test Pro one though and does some weird...

I did remove and re-seat it but I'll give it a clean with contact cleaner also. The card was fairly dirty when I got it (as seen in the first picture). I'm going to try the pressing on VRAM chips phipli suggested as well.

Picked up the card from yahoo.jp via buyee, it's apparently a Japanese market only card. I've noticed a few issues with the card, firstly the boot screen (it displays a logo for the card) is corrupted/garbled) and if I'm in 256 colors, it tends to corrupt one of the colors on my background...

Yep that sounds like more or less what I was asking. I've used VGA to HDMI converters and they generally 1:1 convert the resolution which capture cards do not like at all, so I was largely asking about it feeding 720p or 1080p out. Thanks!

It's a cool idea, but I think I'd lean towards ITX or maybe mATX if you were trying to add some card clots or something to the hardware. Without additional expansion, I can't think of why one would need a large ATX board and case. But I'm a bit of an ITX weirdo and like small computers.

This looks really cool, definitely want to keep an eye on it (I love the IIsi). Would it be possible for something like this to eventually scale the HDMI output video and "pad" it for modern HDMI TV resolutions? That would be really nice for capturing or streaming the output without needing the...

I assume these were the directions you followed? https://colourclassicfaq.com/mobo/mystic.shtml It should work, if you're having issues I'd start fresh and follow their directions carefully. I've used this method and had my CC booting a 575 board without hardware modification.

Man this would be a cool project for the Q630 in shambles at the bottom of my closet... if it wasn't for that edge connector...

Those were really nice and I almost jumped on the group buy for them but it took forever to deliver. A lot of delays. One of the options on it was a beige vintage style cerakote. It was just a kit, so no switches or keycaps, you just supplied whatever you wanted and soldered them yourself...

This sounds like a trace (or diode) issue on the board rather than oxidized contacts since it's a column failure. Would definitely need a multimeter in continuity mode to track it down but shouldn't be too hard to find and is probably an easy fix with a bodge wire or fixing a diode. Spraying...