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I'm having a similar problem (12v won't go above 10v), and I'm starting to wonder if the caps need a low ESR value?

Yea, it seems OK (varies from 0.5 to 180 ohm), but my meter shows the resistance creeping a little, even without touching it. I think for the sake of $1 part, I'm going to replace it.

the first line is some kind of compatibility error - I got it on another machine. I think it was bad RAM? the second line; no idea.

So today I found a screw driver bit small enough to fit PP1, and guess what? Adjusting it does NOTHING. The voltage on the 12v rail never changes from 9.8v no matter what position the potentiometer is in. I said many bad words,

Do you get any error codes, or just the sad Mac icon?

A quick update . . . Finally had time to sit down with the AB and a soldering iron. - reflowed any connections that even looked questionable - didn't fix anything - replaced the 1N4148 diodes, and used aluminum alligator heat sinks when soldering new ones in - no fix :( - replaced the IRFBC40...

Is that the weird width socket? I ended up cutting a normal sock length wise and putting the pieces in individually. Probably could have used pin headers the same way, but didn't have any in my parts bin. I really need to get back to that project . . .

So I've read. I replaced them all, but to no avail. One odd thing; the forward bias on DP3 & 4 look normal (0.5v), but the reverse bias does not (2.7v). These are the only 2 diodes that test 'oddly' on the AB, but I'm putting it down to in circuit testing (?).

Yep checked for cracked solder joints, and the only ones I found held the back bracket in place; I resoldered them anyways. The LB? I recapped it and didn't see the usual cap leakage 'sheen' on the PCB I usually associate leakage. Once the AB is working I'll know more about the LB, in the...

I read your other thread and you've done a lot of work on your classic. Battery bomb damage to the LB is always fun to repair! Check over your AB carefully - I found that the Classic AB is VERY cheaply made and to much heat causes damage to the copper traces.

Hello, I'm hoping someone can help me with a Classic AB voltage issue I'm having. I got a dead (not even the fan spun up) machine cheap figuring a recap and a cleaning would bring it back to life as it has on other machines I've worked on. I replaced the capacitors on both the AB and LB, as...

Interesting. I'm going to have to look for what colour of mica powder would work with the Newton.

That vertical trace on the left looks a little suspect. If you have a multimeter I'd check it for continuity. Probably clean/tin the two pads on the left as well.

Probably best if you post a picture of the board showing the damage.

Looks good!

Wow! Looks fantastic.

You sir, are an artist with the bondo.

Or he was recreating that scene from the movie Zoolander - the files are in the computer.

<sigh> Another result of "if the part doesn't move, apply more force" . . . At least most of the damage is on the back half of the case?

The DNA thing is odd, but I don't have any plans to lick my Newtons, so . . . I can see how baby powder sounds would reduce the sticky feel so I'm going to give it a try with a VERY small amount of powder.