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Can you link to said document? Only website I found referenced IIx boards, where the component numbering doesn't match. Also, this board is pretty clean. It did not use the aluminum smt caps that were prone to leaking

Hi guys, I have a Macintosh II that I can't get to power via the button on the back or via the keyboard.  I have already replaced both batteries and the capacitors on the logic board.  The system does start up just fine using the white wire from PS-3V battery-ground trick. This is the version...

I like the idea a lot, I think the market will be limited similar to the RAM card, not many people have a portable, and some people like to keep them original.   If you can use lessons learned here to design an accelerator to drop in to the SE/30 PDS...   ;)

Turns out surprisingly it was the hard drive. It got stuck in a seek loop or something. If I let the computer sit for about 5 min it would eventually get to the folder with question mark. If I booted with the option key, I can boot from CD-ROM.

Hi, I have a 500mhz iBook Dual G3 that powers to a blank gray screen.  It does chime.  Tried PRAM and PMU resets no help.  Removed airport card and ram simm and still doesn't boot.  I can eject the CDROM OK. Logic board dead or any other options? Thanks!

Is there a modification that can be made so the option for keyboard illumination can be always "on" and adjustable with the keyboard keys? Thanks!

What did you do in order to make it work??

I had this problem. I took the monitor apart and sprayed contact cleaner in the brightness pot while turning it. It cleaned up the pot and the monitor works well again.

It is prohibitively expensive unless you could sell a large quantity (500+) but I could probably create a solid model pretty easily. A 3D printed part is actually a good option, you just sand and paint afterwards, it will turn out nice, but color matching will be a challenge.

Has anyone bought one of the knockoff desoldering guns? I've been wanting to buy a desoldering gun for awhile, but $200 is a lot to swing lately, would much rather $100 if it is similar quality. (for hobbyist use)

That was it, LEFT signal wire was broken. I cut the line a few inches in and re soldered the wiring. It was a mild headache but now the mouse works good. Good call, I should've checked that first.

I will check continuity of the wires

Thanks, this may be the issue but I have no idea where to get replacements without hacking another mouse. I check my ADB mouse and the sensor/led are different sized. I also noticed if I move the mouse really quickly left or right it will move a little bit instead of just jittering there.

The pointer jitters when you try to go left or right. So it's getting some signal, almost like it's telling the pointer to go left and right simultaneously

The SE/30 interface card popped up on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Second-Wave-ExpanSE-30-1989-For-Apple-Macintosh-SE-30-Computers-p-n-0326001-05-/190979687524?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276

I have an M0100 mouse with the exact same problem. Looking for a solution. I tried re-flowing all of the soldered joint but it didn't help.

Do research and see if the activation lock is actually removable. If it's not then the site is likely a scam.

Contact seller immediately and return the phone. It's stolen property. If the seller ignored you file a dispute. eBay won't take kindly to a seller offering stolen items. Not exactly sure but if the phones original owner is still checking find my iphone then they might be able to know the...

This should help: http://tim.id.au/laptops/apple/legacy/color_classic.pdf

This is a great find. I had 2 proto iphones, but ended up selling out and I no longer have them. One ran "skankphone" OS, and the other was dead. See my post from several years ago: http://68kmla.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8591