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Hi all,
In two days of work spread over the past couple of months, a friend and I have recapped two of my Macs. I haven’t tried the Q840AV yet and if I do I will be posting about it in the appropriate subforum, but I have just gotten the Classic II reassembled.
Unfortunately, it (the Classic...
There’s a simple reason for that. At the lowest level on disk, each fork of a file is treated as a separate unit, so if your file has both a resource and a data fork… voilà, two allocation blocks, each of them around 15 MiB, for a total of 30.
I really doubt it. From the high-level file system’s perspective, there is no difference between a logical “volume” (the official term) that is kept in a partition on a given drive and a volume that is kept on a separate physical drive altogether.
Mb is megabits. At least the second time you used it I’m pretty sure you meant MB for megabytes. If that data rate is indeed specified in megabits per second, it might work if your CD burner has an adequate buffer; if it is supposed to be quoted in megabytes/second, you’re probably going to need...
All I can say is “probably”. I had a mini-DIN-8 Mac-serial rotary switch box once that was wired in this incorrect way. As long as you’re aware of the possibility you should be OK—once you turn on AppleTalk it’s pretty much guaranteed to Just Work if the cable is right.
The only thing to watch out for is that some, relatively rare, serial cables were wired backwards (straight through [pin 1 to pin 1, and so on], rather than each end’s Transmit pins to the other end’s Receive pins). As far as I can tell these cables were intended for some early model of printer...
Doubt it. Floppy drives used to come with a disk-shaped plastic slug to put in the drive so it wouldn't get damaged in transit, and the usual workaround for having lost yours was to just keep a disk in it while you transported it.
It's a shame the HD20 is still such a Black Box type of device, even after those docs were posted. I know if I had one of those few Mac models that had a floppy port but no SCSI, I'd be doing a "The Scream" to the tune of "NOOOOOOO!" at the fact that BMOW's floppy-emu will not support this any...
Potentially stupid question, but did you try booting the Q605 from them AFTER the failure with the Duo 210? Unfortunately, past performance is no guarantee of present functionality with vintage gear.
Failing that, how certain are you that the drive is working properly? Even if it looks OK it...
Broadly correct, but you’d likely want to kludge a decoupling cap or two as well. When you add in the ROM socket on top of that, a real board starts to look like a good idea.
Alas, I haven’t had a whisper. And while I am grateful to you for volunteering to lend one of yours, I agree that Canuckistani postal rates are prohibitively expensive. I don’t know the detailed fee schedule but it’d likely be more expensive even than buying one from a US source on Fleabay and...
It’s actually 2–3 MiB, varying according to a jumper on the motherboard. The Classic II can have up to 4 megs of ROM, and the jumper determines whether 1 or 2 of those megabytes are on the motherboard.
Well, yes, that’s exactly what I’m working towards. See earlier posts in this thread.
Still hoping someone can lend a 68882 to the effort. I can probably afford the $2 socket, but $10 for the chip+shipping is a bridge too far at this point (more needed for groceries and gas). Anyone out there feeling helpful?
Bah, that’s what I get for posting before doing my homework. Turns out the things are only $6 each on Fleabay (with $2 sockets) and any that was ever sold will work just fine in a Classic II, what with its feeble 16MHz bus (no 68882s slower than that were ever sold). The only thing to watch is...
Sure, sounds good. It’ll make a good project to show the SRCS in the new year. One slight hiccough in the plan, though — does anyone have a compatible 68882 to lend to the effort? I’ll be happy to mail it back afterwards (I have enough caution to solder to a socket, not the chip), but I haven’t...
Uniserver, have you had a chance to try this yet? It sounds like a simple enough build that even I could pull it off, so I’m really eager to hear about your results.
A 25-pin serial connector actually has two sets of serial data pins, the main one and a “control channel” (can’t recall what the exact terminology was). Maybe this thing splits out the control channel into a separate plug? It uses the same signalling format AFAIK, so it should work.
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