Search results

Both hardisks are bad or need to be repaired. at some point you should get to the blinking folder. The 170 seems ok, the 100 screen should be recaped, and the Logic board also (so far it's working roughly)

Cap juice can go under the main connector, so can be an issue with a broken trace or pin. Yes the internal drive is working, but I don’t think this one is managed the same way, as the internal rely on the LC logic board, probably not the external one. Maybe you can check for any continuity...

Just thinking, this card has several caps that can go bad the nasty way, can be your issue here.

Hi, found those pictures from my own setup (was 2018 !!) time is flying. IIRC the odd resolution is required and mandotory, not only for the LC monitors, but also for the Macintosh Classic Color (Colour) that can also use the card.

Works, for sure, but you are losing the Apple II spirit and look. Have one in a machine, but if i want to go for an Apple II experience, will have my IIe instead. Pretty neat device to be honest, you have got the best of both worlds in a single package, but this little card is pretty hard to...

Probably some cap goo still present. if you have removed all the AB caps, you have noticed that the area is covered with fluid, so probabaly still present around.

Hi, are you sure the SE is really a FDHD ? and has the appropriate ROMS and SWIM ? The Logic Board could have been swapped at some point with the former LB, here the information with the newer chips original chip replace with 342-0352-A HI ROM 342-0701 HI ROM 342-0353-A LO...

Common issue on Classic AB , leaky diodes at DP3 and DP4 + nearby capacitor, can also be the Optoisolator, worth replacing all 3. https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/low-voltage-classic.7708/#post-91632

The Zebra pattern is probably an issue with UE8 (74Ls166)

Yes, not impossible but probably with a lot of work to create a Frankenstein board.

Egret will have to be cleaned or removed for cleaning underneath.

Hi, your best option is to monitor the voltage rails at the Molex connector while booting. Those diodes are always cooked, but not bad most of the time.

I will replace DP3 and DP4, those get leaky with the years, they are ok when tested but they are cheap enough not to change as a matter of fact. The 5 volt rail is a reference for other voltages, so if you are trying to tweak the 5 volt line, the 12 volt will increase heavily. Keep in mind...

Probably won't work properly without new capos around and the Egret removed, cleaned and put back together (lot of contamination underside)

Same here, but having also troubles hearings some other sounds as well :(

I agree a 100% with builder68, I will replace caps first, not so delicate though, and will probably solve your issue

Probably one trace bad from UE8, but I agree with Byrd, will remove the chip, but will replace it as a matter of fact.

Yes i don’t see why it won’t be. The best option is to remove this capacitor and to solder a tantalum instead, smaller and better suited.

Just below the pad.

Using a telephone cable won't fry anything... but won't work either. Your issue is located on the cable itself (if you are not using the same on both units) or a bad solder joint in the keyboard itself. the keyboard itself is pretty reliable and easy to fix.