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yes just stretched, but nothing serious,

No need.

Probably a broken trace, one only is enough and can have this kind of behavior.

Hi, hard to say from the picture, but i can maybe see some cracked solder joints. Have a look at those areas.

Thanks, been there before (too often indeed) The 128k is using a sad Mac code pretty easy to follow (been there also) but yes the piggybacking can help also. Concerning the chip removal, if you have no special tools, you can cut each leg of the faulty chip with a sharp and small plier, the...

Probably a broken trace near the SCSI chip.

MRD 7 If you want to be sure, try the piggybacking method. Put a good ram chip on top of the bad one (try your best to get each and every leg touching the below ones) and do the test again. The test should work without giving an error code.

Hi, You don’t say how much ram you have ? 1Mb ? More ? The Plus is 1Mb if not upgraded, but can be upgraded to 4 Mb unit as amaximum. To be upgraded, a resistor is removed, or simply cut. If you have more than 1 Meg ( 4x 256 kb) and resistor is not intact, can be an issue here. If not, maybe...

Never recapped a drive myself, while i am not saying is not a failing point. Recapped more boards than i can remember though. Just saying that problem is not always related to bad caps (never recapped an Apple II PSU for exemple, nor a Macintosh Plus or SE logic Board either) Just my two cents...

I will remove, clean the Egret and pads, and solder it back. No for sure, but worked for me more than once.

Can also be a broken trace, in the connector side of the keyboard, or in the Logic Board side

Probably the cable and not the keyboard. Keyboards are not troublesome, the cable in the other hand can.

Yes i agree, probably bad Ram, most are required but if they are socketed, you can have a try moving those around for a test.

Hi, you have got a jammed mecanism here. The electrical side is ok, but probably the old grease is not helping here. When the eject motor works, the bottom arm is pulled and the small protuding pin you see on the left picture should drop and the small bracket above should lock it in place...

Hi, yes probably U3, easy to remove and replace (socketed) Can be found easily online

I had this problem once, was a shorted capacitor near the main connector.

Yes you can, the Duodisk is a pair of two Unidisk in a same enclosure. The Unidisk was an update of the Disk II. So you can use all those on the Apple IIe, as far as you have the the controller card AND the DB25 to DB19 cable (probably the hard part of the job) The Duodisk can be used in...

The Classic II board will work, there is a small difference, a connector is present which is not in the Classic I one, but not a big deal. Yes chances are thin to get this going again, never seen one goes that bad.

https://assets.newatlas.com/dims4/default/c2c26b8/2147483647/strip/true/crop/839x650+0+0/resize/839x650!/quality/90/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fnewatlas-brightspot.s3.amazonaws.com%2Farchive%2Fmac-2.JPG

IIRC keyboards were not made at the same factory. One was made by Mitsumi, while the other was made by another supplier (but i can't remember the name right now) Above that, at some point, the first keyboards were supplied with a drawer (prototypes mainly) just like the Lisa, so those slots...