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Me too - the following chips and nearby traces have more corrosion than they should after recapping. A thorough cleaning is in order and far less invasive than removing the chips - I would clean it first (you can always lift the chips following the cleaning, if you have ongoing issues)...

I found a couple similar to this on both an original 512 and also on an upgrade board from this era.

The one attached to the NuBus card appears to be used for data acquisition - a better shot of the card would help determine its use for sure, and hopefully the drives still work, since they would most likely have drivers for the cards. In fact, quite a bit of software might exist on these...

I almost went this route - I had gotten some of the required parts and came close to sending an order off for the boards, but then I scored an original vintage one at an acceptable price. I'm pretty sure that I got a better price on mine than they had previously been going for, because the neck...

I suspect it was a reasonable number, since in1992 (the date of the manual?) the 240MB drive was towards the upper end of what people would have had. From the May 1992 MacUser. Kind of like when they would quote a maximum RAM size based on the memory sticks available at that point in time.

It should have a load placed on it and I think there was another trick that was required (switch in the case, which needs to be triggered) I recall. It depends on the IO board (whether there is a battery and also whether someone was smart enough to remove it if it was there) - it would have...

Definitely - remove the battery from the IO board, remove the PSU and check its voltages, re-cap if needed, check the CRT for issues, check for additional corrosion and address as needed. Possibly - replace the switches in the keyboard.

No modern components at all !?!?! How did you recap the motherboards (polymer?,tantalums?), and if needed, their power supplies? What is your plan for when the hard drives fail, or the drive gear and or caps in your floppy drive? I don't want to devolve the conversation, and for the longest...

Maybe @maceffects would know?

I got it for around $75 - the others that I found at the time (last October/November), were around 120+shipping.

From his picture at the beginning of the thread, this is the HMMU - sort of a low-budget alternative to the PMMU that they put in all theMac IIs without a PMMU. Here is a thread explaining... https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/how-do-i-know-if-my-macintosh-ii-has-a-pmmu-or-hmmu.38060/...

This worked for me when I had a similar problem on an old Compaq PC - its good to be reminded of the options for troubleshooting!

I see re-capping in your future, starting with the power supply (likely the cause of the your 'no sign's of life' issue) and because all the LC model's caps are leaking now, even if there are no overt signs. Obviously you will want to check the voltages on the PSU, before you begin to either...

just ...wow!

I'll bet the lead-free solder works well for this, let us know how this turns out.

Check, Check and Check (including working Mac IIs)... I may need you to talk me through the operation and its not what I planned for the weekend, but I would like to help. Feel free to pm.

There are CSII cards with the Digital 21040 chip as well. I've got one, but no longer have anything to install it in. It appears that these work in the 6500 - https://discuss.haiku-os.org/t/power-mac-6500-audio-in-beos/12481 (the problem there is no sound in BeOS, but the CSII card's ethernet...

Thanks desertrout, and thank you also for sharing the schematics way back then - it really helped and I literally could not have sorted this without them. :)

I've previously shipped a couple of items to Canada, and if you get the right person at the Fedex store (or wherever) its only a few minutes longer to send it off, than to somewhere in the US. I recall that a correct description of the item was key.