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Yep, that's right it is a late 70s dealer type poster.  The SE is all original, I don't own anything that has ever received retrobright treatment.  That one was actually owned by Apple as one of their first production SE FDHDs and it was taken around the world to demonstrate the "new" SE...

@sutekh I was planning on using a design similar to what someone on here did in 2015, but actually use NiCad rechargeable batteries that people can charge on their own without relying on their own charging circuitry.  I would injection mold the battery case.  Your project is very interesting...

@sutekh where does this project stand?  If you found a way to perfect all the issues and have it streamlined, I’d be willing to build brand new injection molded rechargeable battery packs for the PB1x0.  It would be a fitting compliment to make the PowerBook truly wireless. 

So this is my first “conquest” post, though I’ve never really liked the term as it implies a loser is involved in a deal, but I still like the idea of sharing finds. Our very own @ScutBoy hooked me with some awesome gear including ProFile drives. I finally decided to set up my Apple III after...

It is risky to energize the Duo without recapping it, however, most often you have to use the little button in the back and try a few times and it will come back to life.  I doubt its dead.

The case is NOT as brittle as desktop Macs from the similar era. But I would still use caution.  

Just be careful when opening the plastic case to get inside. Don’t break the clips that are no doubt brittle. It’s actually not a hard process so much as a risky process. Simply recap the logic board and you’re good to go. 

Thanks everyone for the tips, normally my Hakko de-soldering gun solves all my problems but this thing is stubborn. I didn’t use flux, fresh solder, and I only had the gun at around 375c. I did have it on for 2 seconds and wiggle, but no dice. I tried cutting the plastic off up top to see if...

I’ve soldered together the breakout board it was quite tedious and I put a bit too much solder in the extension pins as I couldn’t get them to stay very well. I know everything looks like a very amateurish job but it works. I could have slowed things down to look better but had limited time.   ...

That was my first laptop and I used it for years. If I were you I’d recap the logic board.  Other than that they are reliable, although the keyboards sucked even when new. The active matrix screens are nice. 

If you don’t want it, buy it and I’ll pay $150 for it :)  

Sounds very promising indeed!  Please keep us posted. I’ll eventually buy some because I figure it’s high time I build an entire computer from nothing but raw materials...  Well maybe not from silicon directly...

Sounds like it might be a software problem, if not it is most likely the SCSI2SD. 

I agree with @Kai Robinson's suggestion.  And the stencil should be cheap, it will save you from messing up the drag soldering and ruining pads, like I did...  I've messed up 3-4 boards with my attempt at SMD soldering, so I decided to stick with hot air rework or through hole soldering only. 

I cannot recall the process for opening the power supply, but I'm pretty sure that is where your issue lies.  The logic board appears to have sustained no damage from the battery (luckily!)

That project might render the Brainstorm clone project I’m working on a bit inferior. However, I’m sure I’d buy one. I’d still love to get my hands on one of your socketed SE/30 upgrades if you ever do it again. 

I truly believe but cannot say for certain that it is.  Both should be 72pin FPM. 

I think I had a 64mb in mine, stock was either 8/16mb.  Maybe 128mb just like the 6100 itself, I cannot recall.  That is just my vague recollection.

Following!

@Kai Robinson thank you for making this pinout map, it will prove to be helpful, I think.  Still waiting on stuff to arrive from China to finish assembly, I'm hoping this weekend.