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It's to my understanding that the battery will work fine except for not being able to boot the computer without a kickstart from wall power. That's how mine acts anyway.

Oh and - as long as these are the purple colored caps then they're fine. Solid state polymer.

No schematics unless @Arbee intervenes. Re 520: Have you run the relevant battery reset software on that rebuilt battery? (EMMpathy, LIND BU 500, Apple's utility). See this thread: https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/powerbook-500-series-battery-rebuild-failure-oops-all-dead-emms.46341/ Re...

I forget what firmware my Tangerine is on (I can check) but I was able to install 8.6 no problem a while back. It's dual booted with OS X as well.

That’s gonna be a BMS fault and won’t be fixed with new cells. My iBook G3 12” and G4 Titanium batteries have the same problem.

Still looks pretty good :)

I'd install these before troubleshooting any further.

@jmacz What temperature does your battery report when it hits the full charge mark while charging? Mine (the one that jumps to 100% at ~770mAH) does that jump at exactly 40 degrees C. I caught the moment it happened today.

Probably some failed solder and/or zebra stripe bonds on the LCD. It may be able to be fixed with VERY careful hot air application but it may not be worth it, you definitely risk completely ruining the panel that way.

Any metal tool will scratch the glass. As long as you stick to plastic you should be fine.

It's probably the retarder layer that's been left behind. I'd recommend against acetone out of fear that it would melt the ribbon bonds around the screen. Liberal use of IPA, plastic scraper, and time should take care of it. For the new film - make sure you get FSTN film as it includes the...

Hard to tell what’s going on from the photos - can you physically feel more residue left? If it’s smooth on front, that’s probably the rear polarizer film that’s also bad.

If you know how to do it, getting a 100 series machine apart is pretty easy. It's also very easy to damage one if you don't know the right way. For the display bezel, you remove the two screws and then use a guitar pick in the seam between the two halves to unclip it all. Done right it takes 30...

This has happened before on a few PC laptops I've owned, it's a quiet squealing. It's usually the ones that have had battery damage of some sort.

With a case that severe it’s not certain, it could be all rusty in there. You’ll just have to take it apart and see.

This reminded me that my page here is lacking in a good amount of info I've learned since writing it, just re-wrote it and updated the site :)

I’d definitely agree that you shouldn’t test further until recapping. If you don’t care about running the machine off battery, you can buy a “battery eliminator” board here: https://androda.work/product/macintosh-portable-battery-eliminator/ As for using PowerBook adapters, here’s my current...

Somewhat unrelated, but I opened my PM5400 up a few weeks ago to check if someone had pulled the original battery (it had been fully maxed out, including an SSD so I assumed a previous owner did). They did, and replaced it with a 3-AAA holder - great, but they mixed battery types. Two were...

They’re Alkaline - if anything, it’s surprising that they’re only just now starting to become a problem.

I finally got a spark discharging a laptop power supply I was recapping - but on the two smaller output caps, not the large one on the HV side, which surprised me.