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The only polymer caps I know of that were made during this time were the Sanyo OS-CON caps, which are purple and labelled "OS-CON" on the side. These are also always through-hole radial. One of the caps on the PB100's inverter board is polymer. I also suspect the 4.7uf 50v SMD cap on the...

That’s just how small they could make an electrolytic at that time. You’re fine to swap it for a tantalum.

The official stickers definitely wouldn’t have said “mod”’on them. In fact, I don’t think the Apple upgrade even gave stickers.

Ditto, nubbed batteries won't fit. Tenergy seems to be the only place in the US that offers name-brand 4/3A cells (the rest are all generics). On their website, you can pick between cells with tabs pre-attatched, or cells without tabs. The one annoying thing is they've about doubled in price in...

Thanks!

I think that's happened to me once or twice - in those cases, they returned to normal once the IPA had fully evaporated. Either way, there's certainly no harm in replacing them. Where do you source replacements from?

The rollers won't be harmed by IPA, I can say from experience. I haven't had bad rollers on a 100 series yet, but that's just my experience.

Looks well-kept! Hopefully the screen will come back to life with some new capacitors. Cap reference is available on my website: https://macdat.net/repair/cap_reference/apple/powerbook/160.html

Ditto what other people have said. Only disagreement is that I’d avoid ceramic caps for the display - it will work, but they’re not well suited to that usecase and can produce a subpar image. Tantalum caps work great to replace the original electrolytics. Also, pretty sure that trackball is...

Sometimes the Pismo will act dead if a dead PRAM battery is plugged in, but they don’t need one to work properly.

Unfortunately the schematics for the G3 PowerBooks aren’t available anywhere. I’ve got the G4 schematics on my website: https://macdat.net/repair/apple_schematics.html

Ah, I see! Thank you.

Great work! I would love a writeup on the keyboard lubrication. I need to do that to a few of that style of keyboard.

That’s why I thought mine regressed. See the photos of right after the oven, versus around a year later: Note how the tunnel vision overall actually has improved further. But in the initial photo, the edges are perfect while now they’re tunneling. Not sure why that would be.

Can confirm this isn't really the case, I think it is still a good bit improved from pre-baking.

The 3400c battery may not output voltage unless the BMS essentially does a handshake with the computer and says all’s good. That would be my guess.

Definitely not 10.4”, the picture area is 9.0”. Not sure what the dimensions of the LCD + frame are.

I believe with the 2.5 drives that’s it’s only the original GoDrive that has the under platter bumper. The Daytona and Europa are only in the head mechanism.

Was. Was so strong. Unfortunately, it’s starting to go brittle now, just like the earlier PowerBooks. I ran into this when disassembling mine last year. I had some cracked standoffs and other similar problems.

This is great news! My Pismo has one snapped hinge and the other is very weak, so if you do end up bringing replacement hinges to market, I would definitely be a buyer!