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(i've done three 1400s with that piece and never encountered an alignment problem... was your print accidentally scaled? or did it shrink 2%? or something?)

modestly, "next improvement" for me is "add a switch to the face and a cable to the inside to enable a switch-to-smartport option"

i'll not disparage JB Weld, but personally my preferred plastic-on-plastic glue is Weld-On #16.

i must allow, it’s been a few years and parts have gotten thinner. it’s crazy enough, it just might work...

i thought that would be covered by swapping the back... but nope. the power switch is moved to the top case. sorry IIc+ folks, you're stuck with the external solution.

serious question, could you put a IIc+ into a IIc case…? swap the back panel, and maybe plug the volume knob opening…?

honestly, a headless floppyEMU that could fit into a 3.5" drive’s space would be fantastic... I have tried engineering something that could pop-out a compact mac floppy slot, but there’s just not enough space to work with. This was only viable because the IIc floppy has such a big face.

i spent a couple days building parts to mount a floppyEMU inside my IIc. (I’m on furlough waiting out the strike(s) in hollywood and need to keep busy.) This is 100% a non-destructive edit; i pulled the original drive and set it to the side for posterity; the new pieces use only the existing...

i totally missed this thread, i will study it right now. thank you. i've had fine results with these strips, the light is white and consistent... and anyway it’s just tinkering.

confronted with fading light behind an otherwise lovely active-matrix screen, i am attempting to replace the the CCFL with an off-the-shelf LED strip. I have done this same mod a couple times; i finally obtained a spare 500-series inverter board upon which I could practice. I could not find any...

it's wrap wire! it's actually covered with enamel; i scraped off barely half-a-millimeter at each end. wrap wire is my preferred bodging wire because it's inherently secure from shorting.

i have a busted motherboard from a 520 (it burned itself a hole in one of the ICs near the battery, took out a couple capacitors on the way). i was able to use the bad mobo to confirm continuity on trackpad pins. after [way too much] tracing lines, i found a bad pad: trackpad PIN 4 is supposed...

Troubleshooting Trackpad from the PowerBook 500 Series Service Manual. by benefit of spare parts, i have done every step except #7. Trackpad completely unchanged, still twitchy. (I don’t have another motherboard... so the nuclear option is off the table; sigh.)

Trackpad connector at J16 is immaculate. No insight there.

will tear machine apart (again) tomorrow and search (again) for any damage on the Motherboard; will update with results. (see prior, already happy hour here)

you magnificent creature, this is why i posted pictures and why i appreciate this forum. I got an alert while drinking wine, i seriously said "OMG BABY I GOTTA GO DO A THING—” grabbed the tweezers and magnifying glass and it worked, you were 100% correct. PowerBook 540c restored / no special...

no worries, thanks for chiming in—i’m glad my naming suggestion provoked some funny inspiration. *full disclosure, i noted “my fingers are clean and dry” because of your own trackpad situation

one more thing... whatever controls the trackpad seems to be possessed. See attached; the cursor does not actually track the movement it jumps and skips crazily. a mouse works fine though the rear serial port. Here’s the kicker: i replaced the entire upper case with a spare (from a 520c)--ie...

I got a good deal on a PowerBook 540c "for parts", i meant to strip out a couple pieces, but the screen is immaculate and the case is good (hinges still strong!) so, of course, i set about trying to fix it. (i have a box of 500-series pieces, I figured i must have whatever the machine needed...)...

well now i’m imagining an entire 1400 case milled from aluminum...