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yes! i should have just said that. you get it exactly. godspeed and good luck.

thin! not watery, it has enough thickness to hold a bead, very comparable to CA glue, but not as gassy nor as brittle. You build models = i defer to your judgment, i'm sure you have great plastic-melting-chemicals available. (just do a test first!)

i put the glue on the the lid then clamp the shim down over that. I do a bead around the perimeter, then apply the glue in a series of long thin beads across the entire area, about ¼-½" apart, with the intent that it will mash together and fill the space without leaking out the side too much. I...

I use Sci Grip 10315 “Weld On #16”. It’s probably overkill, but i like it: when it’s fresh it has a decent work time, and the bond has incomparable sheer strength.

I have a crush on my PowerBook 550c and I work hard to make it happy. The screen has been unacceptably dim as the 30-year-old CCFL continues its long slide into obscurity; and i wanted the 550c to have something nice for christmas. (i hope i'm not boring with my repeated CCFL-to-LED posts, i...

pardon me, i thought you meant the LED controller board. the LED strip itself (included with the controller board) is cut-to-fit, every three LEDs closest to the size of the CCFL tube. The strip is simply laid in place, perpendicular to the screen, and wedged in with a strip of ABS plastic.

(i read “design a turkey replacement” and wondered where this was going...)

put something in an apple store, it instantly looks cool & modern! usually i link to the board, you caught me the one time i was all “why bother”

i did not take pictures, but there is no trick to it—there’s acres of space at the bottom of the LCD, and the bezel sits so far forward nothing is cramped. I just trimmed the wires to look clean and mounted the boards in with double-sided-foam tape,

I have been restoring my PowerBook 180 to its full potential, using parts from several other machines (including a dead 180 i bought from a russian kid in a parking lot in south Beverly Hills for $50... i might have agreed to become a fence for other things he finds, not sure, this is a wild...

please upload wherever it can help people. maybe tag me in; i have no presence on Makerworld, but you could link to the original on printables

the brightness goes smooth up and down, with no jumps or regressions, just up-down brighter-darker. i manhandled the boards vigorously (wire, start iBook, good, shutdown, mount board, start iBook, good, shutdown) and never encountered any twitchiness.

(omg. i would love to be a guest for any of the retro macintosh youtube folks... are any in the Los Angeles area? consider me on standby.)

the board that comes with the LED controller kit is usable and works great when used with the little buck converter. The PowerBook’s signal is not inverted and needs no modifications; just wire to the points shown. the adventure with my little custom board was a fun digression that might come...

hey team, i was unsatisfied with the reverse signal and just could not let go. So i spent a while really digging though the DF6113 and figured out this mod. I have already used this in several powerbooks that had the "inverted output" problem, and so far it works great. I am not smart enough to...

hey team, i spent a while really digging though the DF6113 and figured out another idea for a mod. I have used it in several powerbooks that had the "inverted output" problem, and so far it works great. I am not smart enough to explain it... i just kept pushing around data sheet, dismantled a...

after a long, deep dive into "how to manipulate a PWM signal for Dummies," i went back to the original board. Most of these LED controller boards are just the DF6113 "example circuit" with a voltage converter on the output. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out the DF6113 and realized my...

if i understand the question... this is designed to re-use the existing bosses; melt-push the bosses into the holes until they are flush to the face of the printed shim. at that point, the bosses will also be in contact with the existing case-wall. to wit, the shim is the same thickness as...

At last! My arm is complete again! thanks @fuzzylogic @alexGS this has been an excellent thread-revival.

i corrected a few flaws and produced a second board; REV1 has a better traces all around. The improved power rail revealed 16v was too much for the LED strip; the appearance of magic smoke led me to get a little step-down converter, turning the PowerBook’s 16v into 9v. The resulting 9v powers...