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Amiga of Rochester, he was active up until very recently. Knows his stuff. I’ve thought about offering recap services too but have the same reservations.

Since you did work on both LB and AB, it's probably best to try and isolate the problem. Do you have the original CC board to test with?

Yes I think this is the way. It'd be satisfying to bring back the original board but I'll just worry about continuing rot in places I can't get to. Re: UD8 etc, totally. I'm concerned about a handful of Apple ASICs that have corroded pins. In this regard the cap goo did more damage than the...

Will echo what others have said. Allowing bad sellers to get away with deceptive behaviour means they're likely to do it again to someone else. Dispute it, and do so with confidence.

I find expertise levels are equivalent. 68kmla is more my vibe, but lots of hobbyists participate on both sites and that’s cool by me.

I'd echo reflowing solder joints on the analog board, check around the top left area, L1, P1, etc.

That looks very promising! Maybe a little bit of trace repair at worst, but I'd wager it just needs a good scrub and some fresh caps.

Well, that the picture above is after a heck of a lot of toothbrush time. My method is: board-sized tub, just enough distilled water to cover the board, a few sloshes of isopropyl (99%), and plain liquid dish soap. Leave overnight, then toothbrush while still submerged. Rinse and scrub with...

I still think this one is beyond help, or rather far more work than I'd reasonably like to take on. I've done a ton of board restorations including battery bombs, but I've never successfully brought back one with damage this extensive. What I'm worried about here is that the rot has crept down...

Intended to say "I think it's the former", tired brain. BUT, check this out. This is after initial soak and scrub. I'm astonished to see almost every trace is intact. Credit to the high quality finish on these boards! They are real works of art.

I found an SE/30 locally after years of looking, got it for a good price. When I showed up to pick it up, they handed me the original carrying bag, manual, keyboard, mouse, and a SCSI ZIP drive. Wow! So I was feeling pretty good. But then I got home, started opening it up, heard the rattle. You...

Sorry to hear this, I wish there was a larger body of knowledge for these Trinitron boards. I've had similar unresolved issues on M1212s and several color classics and they're mystifying. It's usually either a bad connection somewhere along the video signal or voltage issues, but at this point...

Analog recap is a good bet. Needs to be done anyway so may as well. I usually recap everything but electrolytic caps that start with “CP” are the likely culprits, especially the cluster near the speaker and one near the flyback. The big high voltage snap-in cap(s) don’t often leak so people...

Your analog board will probably want a recap if not done already. Some vias on your board look dark, should be shiny. Might want to clear old solder out and replace with fresh stuff. Solder + cap or battery goo can sort of crystallize and become resistive and inconsistent.

I honestly hated the idea of twist off, I was so, so resistant to trying it. I tried using the oh-so-careful soldering iron lift technique suggested by Bruce Rayne, but dwell time was causing issues, and still lost the occasional pad / weakened the pad glue. Cut off carefully with snips once…...

You can’t reattach pads. Or rather I don’t recommend it. I wouldn’t use silver epoxy either, personally. Bruce’s techniques are your best bet. But there are replacement SMD pad kits. You place the new pad, glue it down using heat, expose a bit of copper on the trace, and bridge the two with...

Hmm, interesting you mention the pots. I don't think this is a high-hour CRT, but I did just notice that three color adjustment pots on the back of the AB do absolutely nothing, not even after a good cleaning. I'll replace them and check the other solder and see where I end up.

Oh neat! I fixed a vertical line on a Classic not long ago by replacing PP1 (thank you Larry Pina) so I wasn't sure if this was something similar, good to hear it's normal.

I have a Color Classic with these spots. Thought it was burn-in at first. Fair to say I should look at the molex connector solder and / or the thermister? I'd rather not buy a degaussing coil. :)

Ah. Just did a little more digging and I've seen it suggested this is just a normal Color Classic thing, a wire inside the tube. Is that correct?