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+C1 connects to the +5v plane, so you can test for continuity anywhere that's also connected. +C12 or +C13, say. Usually no issue with tantalums making contact where they aren't supposed to, but it's a good thing to be aware of. Occasionally I place the cap slightly to one side or at an angle...

Haha Color Classics are fun aren't they? This is usually where I start swapping boards from a working CC to narrow down the problem to AB or LB. The scorched AB bits seem like an obvious trouble spot, but my gut says this is LB related. I'm curious what happens if you pulled that diode. U7 and...

Nice work! I wouldn't worry about C4, probably just the solder mask. You can very carefully scrape it back to check that the copper underneath is ok. I don't remember where this trace goes but you could just buzz all the legs I guess. Might check continuity from positive C1 to wherever it...

Not that I know of. They should have values printed, though you'll need to look up the colour code on that smaller resistor. Replace if it makes sense, but no harm in pulling and testing first. I'm also curious about that diode bibilit mentioned, on U8. Need to find my CC schematic and squint...

Re: the derating thing, in JDW's thread @Michael_b breaks down what the failure risk looks like with a 16v tantalum seeing 12v looks like, at least in real world usage in an SE/30 circuit. Very low. That being said, MrFahrenheit has had 16v tantalums (Apple factory no less) go boom on IIfx...

Typically when you flip the power you'll just hear the degauss coil chirp, nothing should happen til you press soft power. If fan and hard disk spin when you flip the switch, it could means the logic board is not making contact or functioning. So with that in mind: -Is the LB seated properly...

Saw that listing and wondered about it myself. And the markings. "CC" and... maybe the symbol is for AC power? Hmm.

Is the memory you’re using known good? Maybe try with an entirely different set, SE/30 is very particular with RAM.

I usually put my iron to 650 for SMD work, will depend on whether you’re working with leaded or non-lead solder, which requires a higher temperature. Clean solder should melt instantly. Leaky caps will turn solder into this crystalline junk, which doesn’t melt well. In that case I add a bit of...

Yeah most of the drive is salvageable too, even the housing if I can work up the energy to sand and paint. Good thing too, I have three or four of these FDDs waiting on parts.

Absolutely the cleanest battery bomb I've ever come across. This Quadra 700 will probably live again. The floppy drive took the hit though, completely nuked.

I went through two cheapo irons before settling on a Hakko FX-888D. Wish I’d just gone that way from the start. It’s not small, but was a total level up. If small is a must I’ve heard good things about the Pinecil.

Those CC II / 550 boards are tricky to troubleshoot. There's a Bomarc schematic for the LC III, I may be wrong but I think the CC II is a very similar design to the LC III, so the schematic might be helpful.

Yes those are good. You CAN use low ESR caps for the LB, but general purpose will do fine.

Yes agreed, after the cleanup I am revising my former optimism. This is a parts board, you are better to just replace the LB and shield.

A lot of CCs avoid this fate simply because the logic board is so easy to remove, so battery gets pulled or replaced.

I’m concerned that you soaked the board in vinegar overnight. I don’t use vinegar as a board cleaner at all. It has some conductivity, and if it isn’t washed away super well it can get trapped under ICs and rot vias, corrode ROM leads, crawl down traces, and so on. I imagine a little on a...

It’s a good purchase, you can fix that up. I have some CC spare parts I could sell you… I have two of those metal RF shields, a few analog boards (need caps and a few parts) and at least one CC logic board (I think it’s even recapped.) I’m in Canada though so could be expensive to ship and import.

The trick to working on a CC is to first figure out what kind of ghost is possessing it, and proceed from there.

Huh. This concept literally crossed my mind last night. It’s a cool idea, PowerPC is still a bit overlooked for projects like this compared to 68k, probably because it’s still easy and affordable to buy original hardware. Not sure it’ll stay that way.