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Assuming they're the same as the SE and SE/30, I bought the ones suggested by zigzagjoe here and they fit perfectly: https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/source-for-se-and-se-30-analog-board-plastic-push-pins.47859/

Looks like 22uF, 16V. Lead spacing is 2.5mm. Not the first time I've seen this failure; there was one on eBay a while back that looked like it caught fire. I think these dipped tantalums should be replaced with new 25V-rated parts as preventative maintenance at this point. The MacCon has 3 of...

Congratulations! I think it's a good idea to pull the chip and give everything a careful cleaning. Everyone has their own style and opinions when it comes to soldering, but since you asked, here are mine: - Installing chips with hot air can be hard on them. I know, when it's a leadless package...

Hmm...what are the odds that the G3 chip that Newer put on that card isn't actually rated for 400MHz?

Thank you! I take great pride in my ability to make sense :)

I can't speak for other machines, but SEs do not have them, so that one is safe.

Yeah, I see what you mean. The 1508s are cheap in 3.3V, but then you need an extra regulator and level shifters.

May be a dumb question, but why two 1504s vs one 1508?

There are a few USB Bluetooth adapters that Apple released a sort of official firmware hack for. After updating the firmware with the Apple utility (only works in 10.3) you can pair a mouse and keyboard in OS X, then boot into OS 9 and they will work, showing up as a USB mouse and keyboard...

Nice troubleshooting! @dv- I recall you had a IIsi with goofy SCSI--could it be something like this?

The other way would be to desolder the EEPROM chip, read and write in a standalone chip programmer, and resolder.

That's for attaching to the PLCC 68000 in a Classic, although the socket for that no longer exists.

If you manage to snag one of these cards, that's awesome, but there are two things you should do immediately: Replace all the electrolytic capacitors, they are all suspect at this point, some may already be bulging/leaking Replace the fan, or possibly install an aftermarket cooler; overheating...

This is it: https://shop.rabbitholecomputing.com/products/sata-pci-hard-card

The slow mouse is the most annoying thing about running a system without a PRAM battery for me, so this seems like it would be most useful in that scenario.

Nice work! And yet more anecdotal evidence for the absolutely cockroach-like durability of Mac SE logic boards vs. other compact Macs :)

Glad to hear you had good results with the RHC card. There's some info on which regulator to swap on flashed Adaptec 1210SA cards in the main SIL3112 flashing thread. Not sure if the exact same part would work for you since your generic card may use a different footprint for the regulator, but...

I'm in the US, but I've found Connector People to be quite reasonable and easy to work with. I recommend just contacting them for a shipping quote.