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What options are out there to fix a broken joint on the lower left CD drive cover?

The link to "Clock Chipping page" doesn't seem to work. Can you repost it?

Some of the screws are under the rubber. You'll probably feel them then you push the rubber a bit. Their position is the same as with the P6500 PSU. Note the additional two screws holding the transformer in the TAM PSU but you won't need to loosen them to remove the case.

They are built on the same basis, however, they are different in details. You'll finde a nice write-up over at Tinkerdifferent.

It is alive! Just realized that I forgot to connect one plug in the PSU. Thank you all provided here in this thread. In summary, the overvoltage caused the MOV and TOP200 to fail. I sourced these parts from a DPS-150GB B PSU for a Performa 64/6500. Once these were replaced, the TAM works flawlessly.

Ok, so I switched the TOP200. No success. Coming back to the task to measure the voltage of the yellow wires: Which one of the following table do we want to measure? Pin Connector Label 1 J2 Pin 7 AMP OE 2 — — 3 J2 Pin 14 AMP RHS 4 — — 5 J2 Pin 10 SPKR RHS 6 J2 Pin 9 SPKR...

Could you point me to the location on the board where I could find the TOP226Y? I found a few similar ones but not this particular part:

I couldn't see any labels, unfortunately. Looking at it again, I now see three yellow cables. Two with similar diameter and one with a thinner wire.

Yes, the fuse was replaced and working. There are two yellow wires. Which one do you mean?

I replaced the two MOVs with spares from another P6500 PSU. Connected to mains did not blow more parts, luckily. So far so good. However, the TAM doesn't power up. What's the best way to test if the PSU delivers power to the TAM?

Thanks! Are the MOV polarised like capacitors? Does that mean that th TOP failed too?

Thanks for the additional insights. These two seem to have blown up. They were at positions 21 and 22. Here's a closer look at one of them: Can I assume the second one has the same specs? It's covered with the white glue which is difficult to remove.

What's a MOV?

Thanks, lisa2. Great video! I put the mouse card into slot 1, 2 or 4 with the same results. I noticed that my Apple /// doesn't like the CFFA3000 card and the mouse card installed at the same time. That's where the A3 doesn't boot. Once I remove the CFFA3000 and leave the mouse card installed...

I finally found time to open up the TAM PSU and assess the damage. There is grime to the right of the large capacitor on the bottom. Could this have been an exploded film capacitor (like the one just above it with the white stuff on it filled into a transparent plastic surrounding? Here's...

Just plugged-in the Apple II mouse card (part 670-0030-E). The Apple /// greeted me with a check board pattern (I believe four squares by thee?). I switched it off quickly to avoid any damage. Any idea what is not right here?

Thanks, lisa2.

Does the Apple II mouse card also work on the Apple ///?

I noticed that I used the wrong driver. With the CFFA3000 driver, everything works as expected. Thanks for the hint!

It did get off quite easily. No apparent damage.