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Congrats! It's a must have for the IIGS! That and a Bluescsi (or your favorite - zigzagjoe's tinyscsi is amazing too!) makes loading things a breeze.

You can confirm that by just tugging (lightly) on the anode wire (with the machine off, obviously). You will feel the resistence from the cap if it's secure in the tube.

Yeah. It sounds like you didn't plug the yoke back in correctly, or you might have fractured solder joints the connector. It's a 4 pin connector on the top left of the board (closest to the monitor). You'll find it under right under the capacitors an inductors right there.

I would make sure you haven't bent any pins on your tube / check you neck board. Also check for cracked joints on the connectors header pins.

Input to the adb will be high. The adb will then trigger reset low for everything else.

Looks like it's at the ADB chip. The RC circuit at tp74 does the initial reset on powerup (thanks robespierre). The ADB also handles the ctrl-reset. Also... if you haven't done it yet I'd recommend capping your motherboard. One of my rom 3's definetly needed it.

I know this is obvious, but check your brightness too. If the pot on the front doesn't show your screen getting brighter you need to adjust the pot on the analog board until you see some raster on the screen. That way you can see if the computer is doing something. Bad caps will prevent you...

W6 is just a jumper. I belive you talking about the width coil. As long as the ferrite core isn't broken it should be okay. Make sure if your adjusting it you only use a plastic adjustment tool. If you use a metal Alan wrench it will mess with the inductance of the coil and will make the Alan...

Sorry... that's meant to say your your yoke connector doesn't have any fractured joints.

You don't have vertical deflection. Remeber... the tube is essentially on it's left side so the line you see from top to bottom is actually horizontal deflection. I would check the pads aren't fractured from the traces you'd been. That and make sure yournypke connector doesn't have any...

Verify your yoke us good. Check the resistance of the vertical and horizontal yoke of your old monitor and compare it to your new monitor. You want to make sure they're close to the same to verify there isn't a problem with your new yoke (broken wire, short, etc). If they're good odds are good...

FINALLY! Intermittent issues are the worst. It would work for 5, and then simasimac for... however long it wanted to A little electrolytic damage, but cleaned it all and pulled and cleaned all the ic's in the affected areas. What fixed it? Not sure... it was either reflowing the all the...

Blown Away! Ya'lls reverse engineering from those schematics amazes me. Congrats!!!

It seems like they have convertors out there that do it, but having never used one i can't vouch for they're useabity.

I'm not familiar with the Hami convertor, but I'm assuming you''ve tried this process on other composite input monitors and it has worked. If that's the case what are you getting on the iic monitor? It might be that you just need to adjust thr horizontal sync or one of the other adjustments.

I have 2764's too. I have pretty much any eprom you need bud (2516/2716 up). Byproduct of being a game tech for over 25 yrs. Let me know what size / speed you need and I'll send you a couple. I can program them for you too if you send me the bin.

Heya Obsolete. I have LOTS of 27C512's (256's too, but did I mention I have a lot of 512's?). Send me a message if you need a couple and I'll send them your way gratis.

Yeah... I love the fusion of Apple 2 and an IBM case style. It was definetly the wild west of computing back then.

I just recently aquired a case that is exactly the same as that, but all the hardware in it is original Apple 2 (both power supply and the pcb). I wonder what the back story is on that case. I've seen a number of clones, but none with the extended keyboard like that. Since mine seems to have...