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Using some kapton tape, I've isolated the pin to #58 RESET (connected to BURG RST5V L). So, it seems like the chip is not coming out of reset properly?

I'm currently running a Rev. A Bondi Blue iMac setup externally with an ATX PSU. It works, but I've had some teething problems with this setup: - No sound output from the headphone jack - System slows to a crawl or hangs at random times; or doesn't boot. Through trial and error I've found...

Everyone’s getting excited but OP said they won’t be doing another run!

I’ve patched a couple of PPC systems and it seemed to work OK without those extra strings. The only weird thing that I noticed was when you go to format a disk in Finder, and Mac OS Standard is listed twice in the ‘Format’ drop down, and Mac OS Extended is not listed. For completeness I suppose...

Swapping SMD ICs? Easy is a relative term - depends on your skillset. For the casual hobbyist, no, it’s not easy :) The first thing is to identify what’s causing the problem. I’m assuming you’ve removed expansion RAM. Are there any signs of corrosion on the board at all?

Adding photos of my 820-0456B into the mix. This is an early revision board. The two OS-CON caps and battery charging contacts have been removed from this example. Here's a reference for the two caps (taken before removal).

Isnt that ‘giblets’? (Maybe same thing?)

Yes, 8.1 will boot off HFS+.

What floppy image are you trying to boot with? You know the SE/30 with stock ROM doesn’t support HD20, right? The issue with SCSI almost sounds like a RTC or VIA problem.

Yes, correct. Agreed - running it for a short time won’t be an issue. Tantalums are probably easier to solder since they have wide conductive terminals as opposed to the legs of tin cans which don’t protrude very much from the plastic base. However, some tantalums are a bit too long for the...

Thank you for linking this.

We've got most of the 68K desktop schematics now, we're just missing most of the PowerBooks...

Possibly - it depends if the corrosion has damaged any vias or internal traces. The green corrosion I can see on the ASC and SCSI chips for example doesn't worry me very much, it's just on the surface, and could be cleaned off. The F258s and yellow Bourns filters with dull legs near the battery...

I think you will be able to handle the trace repair looking at your beautiful and intricate work on the PowerBook LCD cable. I guess more important is whether you want to - as in, would you enjoy the challenge? Recapping will be the easy part... and is good practice anyway. I recommend the...

Oh, it is battery damaged. OK, that explains the many broken traces. I would certainly have a go at repairing it, what's to lose?

The flat flex cable is amazing, well done! By all means a repair is worth doing on this SE/30 board, the only time it might not be is if it's had moderate to severe battery damage.

This is a Simasimac. The pattern depends on the VRAM fitted - I have seen this with Micron branded chips.

Flux is non-conductive (or at least it should be), so I would be looking for another explanation here. It could be something like a stray solder blob in between two pins that you’ve now flushed out or at least dislodged. My first two Reloaded builds are socketed, and I’ve been using one of them...

I did (I forgot to mention it) :)

I recently picked up a couple of LC475 machines and tried out @Phipli's Control Strip Module – initially both topped out at 40MHz. I upgraded one with a MC88916DW80 and it is now able to go faster. It's stable up to 45MHz, and crashes at 50MHz. Configuration: 68040FE25 (L88M mask) on a PGA...