Search results

Did you check the PSU voltages?

As weird as it may sound, sometimes a simple pram reset works to get these new processors working. Did you try that?

Risk was one of my favorite games during that era. I still play it quite often. Mine also crashes in all my Macs, except my B/W compacts (SE, SE/30, Classic, Classic II), and only when running System 7.1 or earlier. They all use BlueSCSI drives. I’m pretty sure I have the black and white...

Yep, I just wanted to mention it as an alternative way of adding memory capacity (if that is the goal for someone reading this). Mine has the PMMU as well as the SuperDrive (SWIM/ROM) upgrade. But I stuck a 040 in there to make a bit more snappy. I can always return it to stock by swapping...

FYI, another option is to find the Daystar adapter and use the PowerCache or the Turbo040 card. This will provide the MMU upgrade as well (plus a speed boost). Although, those adapters are fairly rare.

Looks really nice! It’s so hard to appreciate pictures of nice restorations because of the white balance shenanigans. I’m sure yours looks close to original, but then someone takes a picture of a completely yellow/brown one and the picture looks just as good. It’s a shocking difference...

Here you go. I’ve used these and they work great. https://www.tindie.com/products/garrettswrkshp/gw4194a-4x4mb-pal-simm-ram-for-mac-ii-and-iix/ Edit: Whoops I realized it’s out of stock. Maybe he will make some more soon? You can ask.

Hey, sorry to hear about your troubles. Is there any sign of life? The original VRM has a green LED that lights up if the PSU is plugged in. Does the Artmix one light up? If not, can you try the original VRM? Is the VRM board touching anything, like the pillar? If the PSU is confirmed good...

So I got the Sonnet G3 card (same clock speed) to see how it compares and, while the card doesn’t reboot like the Interware card, it pauses for a pretty long time before it starts loading extensions. I assume that pause is where the “magic” happens. So it’s pretty much a wash, although the...

I think I researched it briefly back in the day and I couldn’t find an easy way to preserve ADC. But I wasn’t too worried about it since I was upgrading to a DVI graphics card anyway. You can always use the DVI to ADC power brick. I assume most people go this route when converting to ATX (and...

I don’t know if you have ever listened to a working stock MDD PSU, but they are insanely loud. That’s the main reason I prefer an ATX conversion for the MDD.

What function does the capacitor serve in the aftermarket mod? I assume it’s just for load regulation?

As @Phipli said, you still want to remove the old ATI extensions (everything that starts with ATI) and install new ones that work with your card. Just search for “Mac OS 9.x (whichever you’re running) ATI 9000 drivers”.

Seems like it could be a driver/extension problem. Does it boot with extensions off?

Is this a proactive recap, or is the PSU dead? Just wondering if this is worth doing on a working PSU. I don’t have a lot of experience with the cube - are the PSUs prone to failure?

Hmm I didn’t know that. Mine is a flashed PC version and it is rock solid in my MDD.

I believe the 7800 GS is supposed to be the “best”, but I tried one (flashed it myself) and it was so hot and noisy, I went back to my trusty 9800 Pro. I use it with the OG 23” Cinema Display using the ADC converter brick. 9800 Pro will be a huge upgrade from your 9000. Halo runs like butter...

Hmm perhaps my memory is a bit skewed. My SE and SE/30 recaps (4 total) were a good while ago and I've done a lot of other recaps since then with lots of leaky radials.

Usually it can't be spotted until you take the caps off. The leak is literally underneath them. I just finished a Classic II recap and almost every cap on the analog board, other than the very tiny ones, had a small leak underneath it. This is pretty typical in my experience. Despite the...

Yeah it’s probably fine near term as I said, but I’ve yet to see a single compact Mac that doesn’t have some leaking under the analog board caps. Cracked solder is also pretty common. Frankly I do the “full treatment” more for fun rather than out of necessity. SE is so solid it might last...