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Much thanks! I was finally able to get the Noctua fan from Amazon, for $15, it took about a month to get here, but it looks like they're fully stocked atm. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VXTANZ4 Have to be sure to get the 12V model.

Noctua fan is really quiet, and has great flow. Worth the peace of mind. The 12% peroxide hair creme, and 10W UV LED worked really well on this project, thanks again for the hair creme tip @Fred1212! Before: Today: Works like new. This restoration is now 100% completed. Thanks for...

M0115 completed. Used a cardboard box with aluminum foil inside, with an inexpensive 10W UV LED, the results are so much better than trying to do this outdoors. Put the front bezel in there for two hours now, it should be more even and match the KB when it's done. Got the Noctua fan...

The Hakko FR-301 made removing the 90° 50-pin connector easy, once again. Straight 50-pin box header installed. Cable fits without touching the top floppy now. 3D printed tray fits well as a result. Put the stock fan back in as it seemed the Noctua would never get here. Got an email...

The little KB badge is pretty fragile, I think I put a pin head poke in it, not too bad. Used this flow station on the lowest setting and far away enough to heat the rear up. Now I can get the peroxide creme on uniformly, and be done with these KB's. Thanks guys!

Got the bottom half of the M0115 whitened today, Just need to whiten the top half. The M0115 I did a while back. But I burned through the badge again, before I knew it was happening. The newly acquired badge is perfect still. The problem is I can't get the badge to pop out of either...

Nicely done! Saw that feature and was wondering how to set the jumpers in order to scavenge data from an old drive. That video helped. Glad to hear it absolutely works, will give it a try soon. Thanks for posting this.

Stains between the keys that couldn't be easily wiped away. Recapped the M0115 and used a 10W UV LED on the space bar, with the 12% hair creme, indoors, and it was much easier to control the process this way. Was able to stop the whitening before it became a different shade than the rest of...

Rather than editing the BlueSCSI tray STL file, I ordered a 50-pin Box Header that is not 90° angled. That should have the right amount of clearance if the cable connects from the top of the board instead of the edge. Still no Noctua AF-6X25 PWM 12V fan anywhere in site.

There was a good video posted somewhere of the Noctua fan's CFM and acoustics versus a stock fan, can't find that YT vid now, but the results were pretty definitive. That might be why the 12v version is hard to get at the moment.

Those keys had some grime that soaking wouldn't remove, had to physically rub all (5) sides of each key with a paper towel, and there still looks to be stains. The board was covered in fine dust, almost like sand. What's with the salmon colored Caps Lock key? Getting ready to replace the (3)...

Got the PDS support bracket today, for use with BlueSCSI. Would fit absolutely perfect - - if I didn't have the top floppy. I need to adjust the printed tray, to allow for the extra length of the 50-pin SCSI cable. Don't need much more room, but going to have to figure it out, and edit the...

Very true! The pictures made it look worse than it appeared in person. Was still filthy though. Took it apart and cleaned it immediately. The best part is there were no spilled drinks, and 0 corrosion anywhere. Stoked! Need to pull all the keys to get the grime in between, but a surface clean...

Fixed above. [EDIT] looked up my Hakko FX-888D, it only does 899°F or 480°C. FR-301 is max 500°C.

Sorry for the confusion, my eyes seem to be getting worse, my Hakko station goes to 899°F, my FR-301, 500°C, which is what I was using.

The M0115 Keyboard is due to arrive today. It looks pretty foul in the ebay pics, hope the keys all work. Also, the Noctua AF-A6x25 case fan I ordered, turned out to be the 3-pin version, which is 5V and won't work. The 4-pin AF-A6x25 is the 12V model, and the correct fan - currently...

I've only done one logic board so far, an SE, but the Hakko FR-301 set at ([EDIT] 500°C not 800°C), pulled each axial cap out in less than 10 seconds (of total heat time). The higher temps are what made it easier for me, 750°C wasn't hot enough in my case. Did not cut the caps, removed them whole.

BlueSCSI provides a kit with all the pieces for assembly, that's about as far as I go. Paying extra for more boards, and rounding up all the components, wouldn't be the fun I was looking for, I like the assembly. Thanks though!

I meant a kit that comes with all the parts, just not assembled.

3D Printed the BlueSCSI back panel tray, for the desktop v2 model. Next to the included tray. My SE is missing the PDS support frame, that metal bracket. I have (2) 800K floppies, so I think it was removed when they added the HDD at some point. Recapped the Logic Board. Test fitting...