Recent content by superjer2000

I would clean the grounding points for the logic board in the chassis and make sure all grounding clips are installed (and cleaned) on the logic boards. The CC is oddly sensitive to this for some reason and what you are describing is a symptom. Also make sure your internal cage isn't bent so...

I think it's just a function of time and the number of hobbyists that actually use their vintage hardware. There is a really good FirstClass Server (MacOSRetro) that already seems to do most of what you're proposing. The issue is not enough people connect to it to make a vibrant enough community...

I'm copying this from threads I had posted to the IIgs group on Facebook. I'm posting this here as it's much easier to find content here than on FB). Even though I didn't end up solving the issue maybe some of my troubleshooting will save someone else time... I just finished moving some...

Thanks @David Cook. I was reading your response in the context of what you had quoted ("Wouldn't a bad crystal also affect the time while the computer is on?") to mean that, generally no, a bad crystal would not affect the time when the computer is on. I may have misunderstood, and I am still...

A few thoughts: 1) There are other mouse card options now - I have an Apple IIe with an actual Apple mouse card (and mouse) and another mouse card made by Chris Auger that allows a USB mouse to be used on the Apple II. This new card works pretty well, although tracks too fast depending on the...

I'm a bit confused here also. I'm understanding the responses from @cheesestraws and @David Cook as indicating that the crystal has no bearing on time keeping when the computer is on. That is different than my experience (on the Macintosh Classic)...

I prefer the polymers. I have used hundreds of the 47uf Nichicon polymer caps and they look close enough to stick you wouldn't know they aren't.

Definitely check the grounding clips then. That's exactly what mine did. Also make sure your internal cage isn't bent so the clips are making good contact. See this post: https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/color-classic-screen-fritz.39468/

Check that all of the ground clips on the motherboard are present and clean. They are the little rounded tabs that clip onto the motherboard.

Greatest retro computing quote ever: "like some sort of retro-computing Turducken."

It looks like the reduced speed was related to the FPU not being recognized. I went back over my soldering and the FPU is now being recognized and the accelerator is working and benchmarking at full speed. I can only assume the driver is making use of the FPU to speed up regular operations...

That looks like the screen you get before the computer resets. It's weird that it booted the first time and stayed on but then wouldn't boot the second time. I wonder if the CPU is getting the reset signal to kick things off. Not sure how that looks on the IIgs but if you have a scope I'd start...

That is interesting. I'm looking into options to see if I can buy an updated TW1340 in hopes that I can clone the CPLD and EEPROM. In other news, I received the full 68030 chips (thanks for the source @zigzagjoe. I am a pretty proficient solderer but wow, that QFP package was a pain. I need...

Thanks @zigzagjoe. I ordered a few of those 030's and should have them in a couple of days. That being said, the purpose of this exercise was to see if I could coerce my TW2340 accelerator to show more than 4MB of RAM. I have now found somebody with the same accelerator (well, the SE version)...

I'm not sure if there have been further updates but an article I read before on the sun-only retro bright method showed a significant and detrimental impact regarding the brittleness of the plastics. I would prefer to do a retro bright bath for 4 hours than 3+ days of high UV exposure on these...