Recent content by GreenBar0n

Looking at your PSU pics, I can't see any obvious damage or burnt components. Can you? If it were me, I'd reassemble the PSU in the cage, then plug it in without the analog board to a surge protected power strip with a remote switch - maybe outdoors - so that I could power up the PSU and cut...

The three brass/gold screws at the borders of the PSU PCB and that white rubber glue are all that holds it in. Once you get good pics you can figure out if it was the PSU, or the Analog Board that was smoking.

Sounds like a good use of what's left of it. (y)

When restoring my m5010, I was told to clip the battery out immediately, regardless of the chemistry. After 40 years why wouldn't I. Is anyone going to address where the smoke and burnt smell is coming from for him?

Yes, clip that battery out by the two leads, you don't need it to operate or test things. Can you remove the PSU board from the metal cage and take pics of the burnt component/area? You'll need to pull the ferrite ring wrapped in heat shrink and white-rubber-glued to the transformer to get the...

I would start by clipping the Varta lithium battery off of your logic board, so it can't leak/explode and damage things beyond repair. Where did the smoke come from, does the Power Supply in your last pic, smell burnt? PSU recap: Analog board recap: I rebuilt an SE M5010 about a year ago...

Thanks guys! Almost sad it's over now, it was a fun struggle :)

Apologies for shrugging this excellent observation off, I wasn't thinking clearly and was overwhelmed by the scope of all of this LB's problems, you were exactly correct, UE8 does not go to UD8, it was supposed to go underneath UD8 and UC8 to where a hidden via is located and then on to the...

I just bought an NOS MC68030RC33B, for an SE/30, from here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/371776928912 I offered him $30 and he took it - might try offering less and see if he'll haggle. Fast shipping, no complaints.

I saw that one for sale yesterday, you got the hardest to find part with an old SE/30, a working/restored logic board (y). That makes up for the case not matching, imo. Great upgrades too for the floppy and HDD. Congrats!

There looks to be a lot of spots on your board that could be a problem. The RPx chips are the Resistor Packs, if these have rotted traces it can cause all sorts of issues. On any trace where you see black or discoloration, it could be a broken trace. You'll need to verify continuity with a...

It sounds like you now have what's known as the fast-chime, not the regular speed, or slow-chime. From watching CayMac Vintage repair videos on YT, he found issues with memory with the fast-chime condition. There is an SMD cap that leaks below the first memory slot, might be worth inspecting...

In looking at your logic board pictures on the first page, that's some serious oxidation/rust. It would be a good idea to soak the board in vinegar, or use an ultrasonic cleaner with detergent specifically for electronics, to stop that corrosion. The pictures appear to show broken traces on...

Nice work! That's exactly what I'm seeing on mine too, missing pin 4 on UD8, A0 - but also pin 12, A1, a new F253 will be here Monday . Congrats!

I had (4) broken traces on my UE10 ASC, including Pin 35 +5V, repaired and verified them all and still get no sound. Socketed UB10 and 11 and verified every connection, still no chime with speaker or Line out - running out of causes to troubleshoot. The new Se/30 will be here this Friday...