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-12, +5, +3?

mst3k

Well-known member
Greetings,
I've messed up somewhere on this analog board recap...
I'm getting a perfect -12v on the -12v rail, a perfect 5v on the 5v rail, and a way not very perfect 3v on the 12v rail.
Mac Classic does not chime, but screen comes up to a very nice, bright square image filled with random squiggles. No checkerboard or straight bands/lines.
Mac Classic logic board works fine in my other machine. I checked the polarity of the caps and all are correct.
I'm pulling the analog board and examining my (admittedly weak) soldering for errors.
Any other obvious place to look for such an odd voltage loss on just one rail?
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
 

GRudolf94

Well-known member
If your analog board is P/N 820-0525-A, check DP7, LP5, CP8 and CP12. If anything I'd bet on DP7.
 

mst3k

Well-known member
Thanks.
I will take a look and report back.
Board number is 630-0525.
Screen image attached

PXL_20231211_231030913 (Medium).jpg
 

GRudolf94

Well-known member
630-0525 is the PCB itself, 820- is the whole assembly, so we're on the right track :)
Certainly an odd pattern...
 

Phipli

Well-known member
Where would I look for a new replacement part number for the diode(?) at DP7?
You're best to click the reply button under the post you're replying to, or "@" @GRudolf94 so that they are notified that you're talking to them, otherwise they are likely to miss your message.
 

GRudolf94

Well-known member
Thank you so much for the help!
DP7 is heavily corroded, as is the identical part just below it. I intend to replace both.
If you mean DP5, they're NOT identical parts (DP7 is the only EGP30D in the machine). DP5 is a BYT03-300 according to Bomarc.
 

mst3k

Well-known member
If you mean DP5, they're NOT identical parts (DP7 is the only EGP30D in the machine). DP5 is a BYT03-300 according to Bomarc.
Thanks for the heads up.
The byt03-300 is proving hard to find. I’ve located some byt03-400’s in Europe but nothing locally, so it looks like I’ll take my chances with replacing the egp30d at d7 and leave the byt03-300 at d5 for now. Thanks again for the help and I’ll let you know if it all works.
 

mst3k

Well-known member
Thanks for the heads up.
The byt03-300 is proving hard to find. I’ve located some byt03-400’s in Europe but nothing locally, so it looks like I’ll take my chances with replacing the egp30d at d7 and leave the byt03-300 at d5 for now. Thanks again for the help and I’ll let you know if it all works.
I did find this equivalent at Mouser for the BYT03-300. 400v reverse voltage max versus 300v for the BYT03-300.
 

mst3k

Well-known member
OK. Tested and checked all the caps for polarity (again) and resoldered a couple that felt loose.
Replaced the EGP30D rectifier diode at DP7.
I also removed the wiring harness from the board and cleaned, installed new ferrules on every wire and re-soldered into place.
Lastly, I found the ground wire from the CRT neck board hanging by about 3 threads of the wire so I pulled it, put on a new ferrule and re-soldered it back to the CRT neck board.
Now, I have NO idea which one of things did the trick, but I am now getting good voltages, a nice strong BONG! on startup and a clear and bright image on the CRT.
Thanks for the help GRudolf94!
 
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