Search results

I joined eBay back in 2002 and it was exactly like that. Buyer beware. I seem to remember that it worked just fine... at some point it became more of a marketplace for new items and that's when they really started adding buyer protections - for better or worse. There's no excuse to...

eBay should be "buyer beware" as far as I'm concerned. I guess if I was the typical person off the street who knows nothing about old computers, and ran across a vintage item that seems to be worth good money, I would not feel bad listing it for what it appears to be rather than really digging...

I personally do not feel that you are fighting an Apple-branded HD issue. I have had OS 8.1 on mine for many years and PC Setup and the PC side in general works perfectly, and I think I just have some random small IDE drive in the machine (IIRC just a 2 or 4 or 10GB one, I will have to check.)...

Really cool, I am surprised nobody has figured this out already. Lack of onboard USB has always been a frustration, if you wanted better video, 10/100 Ethernet and faster SCSI you had to give up USB... or keep USB and give up 10/100 ethernet... or a SATA card and give up something else. Always...

I seem to remember seeing something about that. Going out of business maybe, I don't recall exactly. They had a great inventory!

I'm pretty sure I've bought 30 pin SIMMs from 1-800-4-memory and memorymasters on eBay. Both legit sellers.

Touching the glass part even while it's powered on is no big deal. Might get a little static zap if the humidity is low but no worse than petting the cat. Use the same logic as not touching any energized electrical component. Yeah, just saying, it's no worse than breaking a glass or bottler...

Interesting that nobody has mentioned discharging the CRT manually... a screwdriver with a piece of wire attached to it that is grounded is pushed under the rubber boot on the tube to touch the anode wire (equipment powered OFF, obviously.) Any charge remaining in the tube is gone at that...

Everyone needs to take a step back and breathe. I don't know this Tony guy but I have dealt with estates and estate sales enough times to be familiar enough with how they work. I feel terrible for the family who has to deal with that, the house is a disaster and the only way to make this...

I like pushing my luck, lol. Yes, I put it on a shelf in my office sometime in '09, '10, or thereabouts and had it running the Clock program off a floppy boot disk. The only time it was powered off was during random power failures, the one time I had to fix the C15 capacitor, bi-annual reboots...

I'm not entirely sure it's the flyback either but the whining noise makes me suspect it. The part I replaced previously (I think) was the capacitor at C15. IIRC it had the "bright vertical line" symptom. I did reflow every joint on the analog board and the yoke connector. I added a touch...

I have been using this SE as a clock at my office for 10+ years and other than one blown cap on the analog board that I fixed, it's been working great. I came back from an appointment last week and immediately noticed that the screen was very dim and appeared to be way too large. I took it...

I will be curious to see what happens... I have mine in a LC550 with OS 7.5.5 and way more than 8MB RAM and it works fine although as noted I do have to turn 32 bit addressing off when using the card.  It will request that I do so before the software will run IIRC.  That's a totally different...

So with that Rev. A ROM... how is your IDE set up?  Rev A is limited to one device per channel... I see you mentioned a hard drive, Zip, and CD-ROM... if you haven't already tried this, remove the Zip drive from the equation and have your HD and CD-ROM on separate channels.  I don't remember...

What happens if you hold the shift key while booting to disable extensions?  Will it complete a boot then? Might also try initializing the drive using Drive Setup and update the drivers on the drive as well.

I have not been able to get anything larger than 32MB to work at all on my DOS card.  I've experimented pretty thoroughly with that... any module smaller than 32MB works fine, nothing larger works at all or is only recognized as 32MB.  Seems like a pretty hard limit but I don't have any single...

I did the full '040 and overclock mod on mine and it has been working perfectly for several years now.  I did add a 468 heatsink and fan to the '040 chip - I think that's a must.  Huge improvement, I have no regrets and the DOS card seems to be unaffected. Seems like I also upgraded the 486...

I have also done many boards with 16v caps.  Zero failures that I can attribute to the components themselves - plenty that are directly my fault but that's another topic. I'm curious if there is a true risk in doing this... what is the exact time before failure can occur?  Are we talking...

Just the upgrade to a color screen could make it worthwhile but it depends what you're using it for.  A Color Classic has been near the top of my want list for as long as I've been a Mac user... one just hasn't shown up locally.  Realistically though, for me, my LC550 fills that hole and then...

So I tried DVI... and it defaults to 1920x1200.  Great!  However... it does not work well.  Sometimes I get a distorted, static colored section on the right side and some programs that attempt to switch resolutions or screen colors crash hard and lock up the whole machine.  Some others make the...