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Did I say that after being stopped by customs that low melt temp solder paste eventually arrived? I used it to reattach the 0120 tonight because I wanted to try it. Woweewow! It's like magic! I revisited the PSU just in case. I'm glad I did. From all the plugging in and unplugging the solder on...

FD9, the 3 pin thing just to the right of the 0120 seems to be a regulator, or something to that effect. It's getting battery voltage and appears to be outputting 3.6v, which seems to be connected to the vCuda trace for the 0120. This is with the 0120 removed so I could find the source of the...

There's no cracks or distortion in the CPU card socket :(

This isn't surprising. I know the plastic air channel thing or whatever it's meant to be has a notch to support the CPU card but the whole thing isn't exactly confidence inspiring. I'll have a look later on to see if I can find any evidence of cracking on the socket. Can you think of anything...

You might remember my Performa 5200CD thread? Or not. it doesn't matter. It was one of two computers I purchased. The other is a 7300/200. Turns on and off with the front power button. Turns on with the keyboard. Power LED lights. Not much else. So far I've tried a few things in no particular...

I was waiting on some low melt solder to make this whole thing easier but it got blocked at customs. Not a clue why. As far as I know it's not a banned item, and eBay sellers sell the exact same one with a decent markup! And as silly as it seems I got a better desk lamp which will help a lot...

It seems at least to a degree that the 0120 isn't directly controlling the flow of power so the schematics don't apply as directly as I'd hoped. At least one of the nearby SMD transistors (that's what I assume. I haven't checked their code yet) appears to be involved in switching VBATT to VRTC...

I decided to go ahead and remove the 0120 just now with what I have. It's off, and VRTC is still getting power when the battery is connected at about 0.8v less than VBATT. This is ...interesting. I'm going to have to do some probing because I can't see anyway on schematics that it could leak so...

I just realised there's a trace on the schematic going from the stuff near the top left to vCuda. I feel silly that I missed it but the circuit makes a bit more sense to me now.

I was doing some digging on the internet. Most of my searches led me to posts on 68kmla, which I take to be a positive thing because it means that I can potentially be asking some of the same people. First, for others in the future that may be trying to find this little bit of information, _PFW...

The components I ordered arrived. For the 5200 it was just SMD caps and a FET just because. I put in the new caps and FET. No difference. I realised I can easily check the 5v trickle voltage from the ADB connector. No problem there. 4.96v. Jump starting it from the connector without the keyboard...

You posted while I was typing. I'm really going to need to work out a way to check that the 5v trickle rail is good. I think about the only way is with a soldered on flylead. At least with the classic macs I could sort of eviscerate them on a table and power them up.

Last night I did a quick test of going from VBATT to VRTC on the 0120 with my multimeter on mA with an 18650 providing power to the circuit through the battery connector because I was being a bit lazy. About 30mA still. So it certainly seems that the CUDA is drawing that current. But it also...

Well remember it powers up with no battery but that's it. No signs of life from the logic board. With the battery in it doesn't even power on. I've considered something like your suggested approach to see what happens. Ive also considered bypassing it in a different way so VTRICKLE is directly...

It's not exactly a museum piece. I'm fine with bodging in something else. But I still want to dig deeper first. The voltage on the 0120 VRTC pin going back up to VBATT while the CUDA is probably resetting during / after pressing the CUDA button really makes me uneasy. I just can't see what could...

Being careful isn't enough with this one. It's so brittle that everything just breaks and crumbles. I just finished printing a new hard drive sled for it. Yes I know it's for a non-working computer. But I figure if I can get some nice prints happening I might be able to sell them for a modest...

I'm pretty sure it's not the PSU. 5v and 12v are rock solid. There's something wrong in the CUDA general region with the way it handles power. I haven't gotten around to doing more since the last post. I did have a chance to check a store for some basic supplies I needed but they didn't have...

That's what I observed when I cobbled together a battery for it using three button cells. I was literally watching the voltage drop via the multimeter. What's been bugging me is I haven't seen any indicator that the 0120 has actually failed. But you're absolutely right. The only way to work it...

On the 5200 board the current drawn from the "battery" via the terminals is roughly 30mA. So if the schematic is correct for this model there may be a resistor in between. However when I measure the resistance between the positive on the battery header and pin 7 on the 0120 it comes out at...

I can't get a good reading off the 0120. I think the circuit is trying to run from the power from the multimeter. What I will try is a setup similar to what I used earlier and set up the buck converter to 4.5v then I'll stick the multimeter inline and measure the current. The 7300 measurement...