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That would be fantastic! Thanks!

I have four 500 series batteries two of which are beginning to show signs of leaking. As I never need them to power the computer, I'm wondering if it's possible or even adviseable to remove the acid and create dummy, dead-weight batteries. They really help the balance of the computer but I fear...

Nevermind - seems to be a flaky ribbon cable from the connector board to the LCD board

"contrast" adjustment not "contact" adjustment. (iPhone autospell)

Also - whatever blew most recently, it seems to have rendered the contact adjustment inoperable. Brightness works fine. Not sure if that's any clue? I noticed something Labeled FU1 on the inverter board which I assume is also a fuse?

Worked for awhile....but now I'm back to a white screen. I realize jumping fuses is fixing the symptom and not the problem so I'm wondering how likely it is that the caps are the issue as you mentioned? What would be blowing next on the LCD after the jumped fuse?

Regular Performer (not Digital) Something to run on system 6 or 7 on my SE or Quadra. Not sure if it can be purchased anymore? Thanks.

Must be an IDE interface though the drive is labeled scsi. welovemacs.com informed me today that they mislabeled it and said they were sending the right one.

I bought a 1gb microtech roadrunner 2.5" scsi drive but it does not appear to fit the internal scsi cable for my PowerBook 540c...looks like one pin receptacle on the cable is intentionally plugged and does not allow this drive to fit ?

Amazing...that fixed it! At least for the time being...thanks very much for your help!

Ah yes...I got it...gonna just bypass it and see what happens.

Where would I locate the main B+ fuse you're referring to?

...and is it possible to (and would there be any risk) in just bypassing this fuse?

Interesting - all the caps look perfect visually but I know that isn't conclusive. Is this more likely a motherboard or invertor board issue? Is there anyway to know?

Also - I put in my b&w LCD from my 540(nonC) to see what happens...it doesn't blow this LCD...runs fine but of course I want to get a color screen in there that's working.

After putting in a second screen, I cranked up the controls on the front panel and the screen lasted maybe 5 minutes...dead to an all white screen after a reboot...this was the same issue with the first screen. So I think some problem on the motherboard or inverter board is killing these lcd's ...

That did it. Thanks again.

That's the news I wanted to hear! Thanks.

I noticed my SE can get brighter than my SE/30. Is this due to CRT age ? Or maybe some component on the analog board aging ?

I'd love to...where's the best place to get an ethernet pds card...these are somewhat expensive right ?