yes, as long as you have the correct Interconnect-to-Display cable, you can have an Active Matrix PowerBook 520c
for the LQ94D041 Display you need the cable that says SHARP COLOR TFT (active matrix), part 821-0026-A / 632-0017-REV.A
everything else--inverter board, interconnect board...
The 540c display can suffer from failed capacitors; i have replaced capacitors on a couple screens, including a new-old-stock that i purchased. It's an inexpensive treatment, certainly worth a try. @3lectr1cPPC maintains the most excellent reference site.
if you want to purchase a replacement...
it's incredible in idea, but i’m not 100% sure it works. Turns out the circuitry is weird, like most PRAM batteries only charge if there is a functional battery charging in the PowerBook--no charge to the main battery means no trickle-charge to the PRAM. I've tried this PRAM replacement board in...
i have installed this shim into three PowerBook 1400cs. I don't doubt it could use some finesse, a half-a-millimeter here and there that i was too deep in to notice, "meh i'll just push a little...”; i appreciate the objective assessment. If someone can adjust the STL--and maybe someone install...
this is fantastic—i couldn't have commissioned better work; i'm thrilled to be part of the process. thank you for giving this to the community. (@BinaryGrind please share your remix!)
thin! not watery, it has enough thickness to hold a bead, very comparable to CA glue, but not as gassy nor as brittle.
You build models = i defer to your judgment, i'm sure you have great plastic-melting-chemicals available. (just do a test first!)
i put the glue on the the lid then clamp the shim down over that. I do a bead around the perimeter, then apply the glue in a series of long thin beads across the entire area, about ¼-½" apart, with the intent that it will mash together and fill the space without leaking out the side too much. I...
I use Sci Grip 10315 “Weld On #16”. It’s probably overkill, but i like it: when it’s fresh it has a decent work time, and the bond has incomparable sheer strength.
I have a crush on my PowerBook 550c and I work hard to make it happy. The screen has been unacceptably dim as the 30-year-old CCFL continues its long slide into obscurity; and i wanted the 550c to have something nice for christmas. (i hope i'm not boring with my repeated CCFL-to-LED posts, i...
pardon me, i thought you meant the LED controller board.
the LED strip itself (included with the controller board) is cut-to-fit, every three LEDs closest to the size of the CCFL tube. The strip is simply laid in place, perpendicular to the screen, and wedged in with a strip of ABS plastic.
i did not take pictures, but there is no trick to it—there’s acres of space at the bottom of the LCD, and the bezel sits so far forward nothing is cramped. I just trimmed the wires to look clean and mounted the boards in with double-sided-foam tape,
I have been restoring my PowerBook 180 to its full potential, using parts from several other machines (including a dead 180 i bought from a russian kid in a parking lot in south Beverly Hills for $50... i might have agreed to become a fence for other things he finds, not sure, this is a wild...
the brightness goes smooth up and down, with no jumps or regressions, just up-down brighter-darker.
i manhandled the boards vigorously (wire, start iBook, good, shutdown, mount board, start iBook, good, shutdown) and never encountered any twitchiness.
the board that comes with the LED controller kit is usable and works great when used with the little buck converter. The PowerBook’s signal is not inverted and needs no modifications; just wire to the points shown.
the adventure with my little custom board was a fun digression that might come...
hey team, i was unsatisfied with the reverse signal and just could not let go. So i spent a while really digging though the DF6113 and figured out this mod. I have already used this in several powerbooks that had the "inverted output" problem, and so far it works great. I am not smart enough to...