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Now I really want one!

This started happening again and now I'm thinking capacitors/PSU may need some attention. Powered it on a few times this evening, often no chime and the only sign of life was I could eject the optical tray. Then sometimes it would chime but no power light or monitor. After sitting awhile it...

That's so cool! I'm definitely interested but the question is always "how much?"

I re-flowed a few odd joints but mostly stuck to re-capping.

Unfortunately not. I traded the original board along with another dead CC for this board. Strangely enough the screen was normal when I powered it on an hour later. Maybe it's other AB components getting hot?

Finally got a working CCII board for my CC and recapped the analog board for good measure. Recap went smoothly and everything was still working. Monitor had a purple tint before and after so the next step was to adjust the rear pots. I got a little ahead of myself and replaced the battery holder...

It's alive! Thankfully just turned out to be a combination of a dead battery, bad RAM (idk how it died just sitting but ok) and using an OS9 disc it doesn't like (9.2 worked fine, maybe 9.1 is confused by the G4).

Wanted to share my very cheap solution: LR44H button cell holder (batteries included) for $3.50 (99 cents + shipping) from Mouser and I used a cable tie to hold it down.

Just got a 3×1.5v button cell holder from Mouser to replace the Rayovac battery but... am I losing my mind or is this diagram telling me black is positive and red is negative?

Haven't touched my Bondi G4 in 9-10 months and come to find it no longer wants to boot! No chime except after a PRAM reset, won't boot from hard drive or optical drive. I was able to partially boot an OS9 disc only once, but it gave me a memory error and hung. I've tried swapping the RAM around...

The original tray-loading iMacs had the odd feature of storing the serial number in a hidden sector of the hard drive, meaning that if you wipe/replace the hard drive and do a clean install, System Profiler won't show the serial number. You can even swap the hard drive from another tray-loader...

Verbose mode didn't work for some reason. Firmware 4.1.9 is for the slot-loading models, installer for the 1.2 firmware says it's already updated. I'll look into that OF hack but I suspect the problem was that I was trying to install on the second partition. Maybe I should just do a clean...

I have an original 1998 iMac G3 Bondi with upgraded CPU card (366MHz G4 thanks to dosdude) and DVD-ROM/CD-RW drive. Trying to install OSX Tiger with XPostFacto, but for some reason it gives me a 🚫 sign after reboot. Weird thing is it will boot a Tiger DVD or CD with the normal startup key method.

Good deal, I just got one off eBay for $37. Seller said it was giving 3 beep code, but I blew the dust out and re-seated the RAM, she fired right up!

*BUMP* Wondering if I can hire someone to fix either/both of these boards? DM if interested.

Destroyed a few pads on my CC and SE/30 boards. CC was the first board I tried to re-cap, with my rusty soldering skills and not the best iron. My electronics guru helped reconstruct most of the traces but we couldn't get this last one and I can't tell what it connects to. SE/30 recap went...

Memory is seated pretty securely and worked well enough to boot floppy images several times in between swapping the mouse and keyboard around, hoping for signs of life. I'll try re-seating and re-arranging it after I replace that LS393.

High pressure sink hose, nothing too extreme Haven't checked voltage anywhere yet. Floppy and HDD are unplugged.

Finally got around to re-capping my Mac SE/30 board, after swapping the CRT from an unhappy Mac Plus and confirming signs of life. Screen came on and I could even boot off my Floppy Emu, though sadly the ADB ports appear to be dead. I knew it could use a re-cap after 30 years (at least 15 of...

Can't you turn on B/W in the color settings? I'm more interested in the LCD aspect than anything else. Reduced weight and power consumption, more space for airflow, little-to-no need to hack apart the shell, and a nice crispy picture with no seizure-inducing flicker!