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All my working mice for the Mac Plus are missing a pin, including the mouse that came with the Mac Plus I bought new in 1986. To add to the complications of replacing the floppy drive in a plus is that you have to match the floppy cable (yellow stripe vs red stripe) to the floppy drive (red...

If you are just looking for a PSU and don’t care if it is a genuine and vintage Apple device, you can make your own PSU for the Lombard by using a modern PSU with an adapter: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/fsp-technology-inc/FSP050-DAAN3/15713261...

Great! How much did you need to scale it down by?

See also this thread regarding psu alternatives, including the Seasonic.

There are aluminum, aluminum polymer, tantalum, and tantalum polymer electrolytic capacitors. It has been my experience that when people talk of “polymer capacitors,” they are usually referring to aluminum polymer.

If you don’t mind an anachronistic keyboard/mouse, go for an AppleDesign ADB keyboard and a teardrop Apple mouse. They tend to be fairly cheap and function well, despite coming well after the SE was discontinued.

For SATA in OS9, I currently have the Acard AEC-6290M in one Mac, and AEC-6890M in another. For IDE, the SIIG SC-MP4A12 2-Port PCI EIDE Ultra ATA-133/100 Controller for Mac comes up now and then for a reasonable cost. I bought one a couple months ago for less than $30 shipped. BUT! If you...

Congratulations! A great machine - I have one myself. Now find an 800MHz or 1GHz Sonnet G4 cpu, and watch it fly!

Good to know. Mine were from 1-800-4MEMORY.

Watch out for the height. I believe the OWC does not list the SE/30 as compatible because their RAM is too high to clear a low-hanging metal area of the case, when put into the slots nearest the CRT. I broke a RAM slot using RAM that was too high - in my case, this proved to be very, very...

Using a cheap micrometer from Northern Tools: My SE shield consists of a 7mil aluminum sheet (approx 1/128", 0.18mm) covered with a 10mil (1/100", 0.254mm) plastic sheet. Either an adhesive backed plastic shield or a sheet of plastic sprayed with contact cement could be adhered to the aluminum...

Unless you have a good main battery, I don't believe it is worth the effort to replace the PRAM in this machine. It does not hold a charge for very long by itself. I hope to be corrected if I'm wrong, but I don't believe I am.

Perhaps then Intech Hard Drive Speed Tools - that has drivers for all sorts of drives and might be worth a try.

Ceramic caps did not work for me in a PM8600, MDD G4, nor in one of my SE/30's. I've read in a Kemet publication that the effective capacitance of ceramic caps decreases with application of DC voltage, so when exposed to DC, ceramic caps need to be higher capacitance than the ones they are...

Now that I have my own SE/30 (well, several), I'll have to give those a try!

I used to play a driving simulation game on an SE/30. I think it was called Test Drive. Given the limitations of 1 bit monitors, the graphics were surprisingly good. Microsoft had a flight simulator that I played on my Mac Plus. Same comment regarding graphics.

How disappointing! Similarly, I had no success with solutions that others posted had worked for them. I wonder what the differences are among different Wallstreets and PDQs that make them behave differently with regards to storage. These are some links to successes others had that didn't work...

I did that with one of my Lombards. It's a good solution for when you can't find Lombard hinges. usedmac.com has Pismo hinges for $15 each side.

That drive works fine in my Lombard, but I never got it, nor any other solid state drive of any kind whatsoever (when installed internally), to work in my Wallstreet II (PDQ).

Not to steal focus from the OP, but for CF cards, I’ve tried Syba, ASHATA, QNINE, generic, and I believe at least one of those above was verified by at least one forum member here or elsewhere to work in their Wallstreets. In addition to Transcend Industrial, I tried Sandisk and Sandisk Extreme...