Search results

OK, thanks. I thought that might be the case. I don't have a hot air gun, so will probably have to live with it for now until I feel brave enough to give that a try.

I’ve tried previously with the power supply from the LCII and it didn’t make a difference. Both have good voltages.

It's occurred to me that I've been running the LC 475 without the cover on. I remember that Mac's like the PowerMac G5 need the case to be closed for the cooling system to work effectively - does the same apply to the LC models? Perhaps I'm causing it to overheat?

Has anyone had a relatively new replacement 1/2AA leak? I’ve got a few computers that I use occasionally that I’ve put replacement batteries in, with the plan of replacing them every five years. However, I’ve had loads of AA batteries leak over the years, and some before their expiry dates - so...

The sound is coming from the speaker on the LCII - sounds a bit like an old fashioned kettle with a whistle, though sometimes the pitch is steadily increasing like a kettle coming to the boil, sometimes it’s decreasing in pitch like a bomb falling! By the way - the LC 475 had the no...

Thanks for the suggestion - but I'm only using one SD card between the three BlueSCSI's - it has 7.5.3 and is able to boot both the LCII and LC475 just not in every circumstance.

LCII - BlueSCSI v2 connected with external SCSI cable - boots successfully LC475 - BlueSCSI v2 connected with external SCSI cable - 0000000F 00000002 sad Mac

I've been having some issues with my LCII booting from the BlueSCSI v1-c. In my testing: I have: 3 x 50 pin internal scsi ribbon cables 2 x BlueSCSI v1-c with latest firmware (termination jumpers on) 1 x BlueSCSI v2 Samsung Pro Endurance SD card formatted ExFAT with a 7.5.3 image set to SCSI...

Working with the 32MB SIMM and the 2 x 512MB VRAM too. Thanks for the help everyone! Maybe I'll start asking about a weird issue with an LCII that makes a high pitch whine - that varies in pitch over time!

Wow, another person from the UK - hi! Bathing the board in isopropyl alcohol appears to have done the trick. When I first booted it there was no image on the monitor - but then I heard a beep (a warning about energy saver or similar) - and then I realised I hadn't plugged in the monitor cable...

OK, thanks - might try a proper clean. Have done that previously with other boards. My conclusions so far are that it boots promptly with the RAM SIMM slot empty, but not with either of the 4MB or the 32MB SIMM that worked last week. Cleaning the SIMM contacts and the socket with Servisol...

Had thought the chance of you being in the UK was negligible!

I cleaned off the flux thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol, but didn't submerge the board. Recap went very well - for the surface mount capacitors used 2 soldering irons to simultaneously melt each site and lift the caps off, then solder wick to clean the pads, flux, then new solder on the pads...

Good idea. Although it's not consistent, the most consistent way of getting the display working is by holding the red button down for 10 seconds, then waiting 30 seconds and powering on. With the RAM SIMM removed and the hard drives disconnected I get he floppy symbol - but if I power off...

Hmm, after trying various combos, the original VRAM and with the RAM module removed has just started up. Not sure if a coincidence, as there have been some inconsistencies since I got this computer. Update - not repeatable. Changed nothing yet back to the same issue.

Just tried the Red button suggestion but not didn't make any difference.

No different with the original 2 x 256MB VRAM it can with. Just tried.

I bought VRAM from an eBay seller in France, 2 x 512MB, purple coloured boards. Haven't overclocked it. Command option P R doesn't seem to work.

Had tried it with and without the new VRAM - can I try swapping back the original VRAM just in case it's that. I don't think there are any dip switches. The monitor settings haven't changed since last week when it was working ok.

The battery measures 3.6 volts Oddly when I tried the power on, power off half a second, then power on - the monitor now says Input Not Supported - whereas it had been displaying correctly at the different resolutions I tried last week.