Seems people are confused in posts. So to be clear.
<<< Original PSU >>>
* Doesn't work but ordered caps
* Gets super hot
* Voltages wrong
<<< Off-brand Pico PSU I have in hand >>>
* Works / Tested
* -12v line reports as -7.2v with zero load
* -12v line reports as -5.2v when Mac LC is powered...
You should only need to replace the electrolytic caps. If it worked before its probably not the PSU atm.
Are those pictures of the board after you recapped? Did you use heat gun? Did you pull up any traces?
Did you wash board off with IPA (isopropyl alcohol)?
Or Its possible you broke a trace...
Oops this "have a pico PSU with a weak -5v line of around 7.5v with no load."
Should have been: "have a pico PSU with a weak -12v line of around 7.5v with no load."
Said -5v instead of -12v line. So week -12v line thats -7v with no load but goes to -5.2v with mac powered on in short.
So in short I really want that -5v line to make sure I don't limit some hardware.
So other question is: I have a pico PSU with a weak -5v line of around 7.5v with no load.
If I power the Mac LC, the -5v line runs at -5.2v. Will this harm anything long term.
I also ordered a new Pico PSU & can...
So my LC PSU is bad (smells bad to & gets stupid hot). I will try replacing caps but if something else is wrong I'm using a Pico PSU.
So I did some Pico PSU tests to make sure computer boots fine (& it does) BUT I found out I don't need the "-5v" line to be connect...
What is the -5v line used...
The hard drive in mine went out as well.
I was able to fix it by taking it apart and cutting with wire-cutters off a peace of plastic blocking the head from moving and reading the disk.
You can turn the drive on with the lid off to see if the head moves or not. If thats all it is, its easy to...
Is this just a sink on green issue? My 4:3 LCD this happens sadly.
I ordered an original video cable as I can an original VGA convert I'm going to try next.
But are there better 3rd party VGA converts that work better?
I'm using a Griffin 1-8 switch one at the moment.