Recent content by ian1035nr

I'm over a month late, but I had a similar problem after recapping my own 180c display. My guess as to what happened is the temperature from the soldering iron ended up affecting the cables running from the PCB to the LCD. There's another thread on this forum of people dealing with a display...

If I remember right, there was also IO covers like this that, in addition to the cutouts, also had a push button latch, instead of relying on a flexible plastic hook to keep the door closed.

Just realized I fudged the name on one of the pieces of software It's not the Lund Battery Manager, it's Lind Intelligent Battery Utility System. Remember, children: Don't try to mash out a forum post after you just woke up and are trying to get ready for work. On that note, Lind needs some...

I rebuilt the battery using a 9.6V Tenergy battery pack, some thin copper tape, low-temperature solder paste, aluminum foil from the kitchen and a couple pencils (preferably ones with flat sides). To open the battery up I took the 2 pencils, placed them on both sides of the battery pack...

Do you happen to have the brands of the CF card and adapter you used? I tried the same trick using whatever Amazon had available, but it didn’t work. The adapter and card ended up working just fine in an old IBM L40SX laptop, so they weren’t completely useless; they just wouldn’t play nice with...

After working on and off (mostly off) for 10 years, I’ve finally gotten a PowerBook 540c that was bought off eBay completely refurbished to my liking and ready to go. The unit came to me in pretty decent shape, but definitely needed some help. Lots of corrosion in the battery bays from leaked...

Also keep in mind that you're going to need a way to get software over to whatever PowerBook you purchase. BlueSCSI or SCSI2SD will make that a lot easier on your initial install. But once you have everything in place and buttoned up, it generally isn't advisable that you crack the machine open...

I've had a similar problem with a 10MB module that's been floating around in my collection for over a decade now. The connection for 1xx RAM modules is kind of.... Not good. It's not like other RAM types that at least have some kind of clip, the whole thing relies on friction, as I'm sure you've...

Ah, beans. I was kind of hoping it was a SCSI2SD specific issue, since it'd likely either be something I can't do anything about, or requires some changes to the configuration. But if the same thing can happen with regular HDDs, then that opens up more potential causes. One of these days I'm...

Good news, everyone! After sitting on the 180c for months after a failed screen recap, I had an epiphany: Over a decade ago, my Nintendo Virtual Boy had rows of dead pixels which I fixed by tossing the display assembly into an oven for a bit before pressing down on the the ribbon cable. If it...

Howdy, everyone I’ve got a PowerBook 170 equipped with a 2.5”, V5.0 SCSI2SD drive that tends to misbehave after a system crash.    I don’t get crashes very often (only when I forget to turn off extensions that are known to cause problems) but when I do, the PowerBook will no longer boot off...

In the end, the project has been shelved for a while. My old car had some major structural failures and needed to be replaced, so that's been occupying my time and wallet. I did get a partial refund from VIS for that defective screen. They wouldn't issue me a return shipping label, and local...

They agreed to a full refund, I just have to send the panel back, which is fair. Paypal will cover the return shipping costs, so in the end I’m just out a few minutes of my time.    Their excuse was that they couldn’t test the panel because they didn’t have any PowerBooks on hand to try it in...

SCSI2SD PowerBook Edition is pretty much your only option at present, whenever they're back in stock. There are some adapters out there to get the regular SCSI2SD adapter to work in a PowerBook, but that ads to the overall cost a fair bit I've been experimenting with the IDE to SCSI bridge...

So I things with the 180C have been going...... bad. I recapped the original LCD and the distortion is gone, but now a row of pixels on the top of the panel is dead. I think my new soldering iron was a big part of the problem. The digital temperature setting was extremely erratic and seemed...