Recent content by desertrout

This may sound cliché, but have you recapped the logic board? Doing so resolved boot issues on my 190cs...

I can indeed confirm this; with it removed, the machine will chime and show the grey screen (but no further progress) - interrupt will produce two chimes and sad mac. I can't comment on the rest though - beyond my reach.

Excellent news! Screen looks great. 8MB RAM too, totally maxed out. 😄 Enjoy!

The startup sequence is the same as the SE, described here (page 243): https://vintageapple.org/inside_o/pdf/Guide_to_Macintosh_Family_Hardware_2nd_Edition_1990.pdf Also here, page 1.27: https://www.apple.asimov.net/documentation/macintosh/atp_macintoshportable.pdf The Developer Note may be...

Ah that's frustrating. Well, you know the symptom happens when the display is connected, and you've determined it's not the cable. So the issue is either on the display board still or on the interconnect board. Close visual inspections of both, the connectors, along with a multimeter to check...

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OK. Shouldn't be too bad - hopefully it checks out. Quick question: did you clean the display board after recapping?

At this point I would start from the most basic and work my way up, progressively connecting things. Begin with just the logic boards and interconnect board - nothing else connected to the interconnect board. If you get a chime, then try with the display cable attached. Then the inverter /...

When you say the 'main cable' do you mean the cable to the interconnect board? Or do you mean the display cable?

Nice work! Are those ceramics you're using for the small 3.3uF's? I was going to say before your latest post that this may have been the culprit, as there are two radial electrolytic caps that can leak and affect brightness and contrast behaviour... but @mdeverhart 's keen eye obviously spotted...

Ah, frustrating. No need for apologies. :) My first thought is that it looks like there's a short or an intermittent connection, but impossible to say where - could be the interconnect cable, the display cable, the power jack, or even the HDD cable. First, as always, double check your work...

That's very sensible... and not something I actually thought about. I've always just grasped the cylinder, not really thinking about the base moving... I'll have to start doing this too.

er.... CR2032

Replacing it is optional as it's not required for operation, but it's very likely dead and possibly leaking so I agree it should at least be removed. If you do want to replace it, it's likely a soldered-in version, so VL2330-1. Alternatively, you can install a CR3032 holder. But the battery is...

Nice! I was audibly groaning looking at the first set of photos seeing so many (most?) caps in such close proximity to slots, but those tweezers sound like the perfect solution. A note on removing left over plastic bases... I find using a scalpel works great, gently pressing down usually cuts /...