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Found 11 results

  1. First post - thank you for the awesome information I've been able to track down so far. I haven't tried everything yet, but I think I've got enough to start a thread. Apologies if this is covered elsewhere and I missed it. I've had my grandmother's OG Macintosh (I think it's legit, Model M0001) sitting in a corner of basement for 10 years, and I finally decided to try it out. Symptoms: flip the power switch, sometimes it gives the classic "bong" and sometimes it gives a muffled, slow-mo version of the sound. The screen doesn't show anything, or sometimes shows garbled checkerboard,
  2. A viewer of my YouTube channel recently asked me about a Sad Mac Error code that he is seeing on his Macintosh 128K: 047A80 It would seem to be RAM related as per this: To identify the individual bad chips, we use this... Unless I am in error, the 7A80 part would seem to indicate 6 bad chips at the following locations: 1000+2000+4000=7000, so: G9, G10 & G11 0800+0200=0A00, so: G6 & G8 0080 = F12 Strangely, Mouser doesn't have replacement chips but JAMECO does. As you can see on
  3. Hey guys, I just have a simple question to ask. I have a Macintosh 128k with what I think to be a 512k upgrade board. It even says 512k on a little sticker on the board. However, it is missing the Roms to it. It just displays a checkerboard. My question to you guys is, what roms should I purchase? 512k roms or 128k roms. Thanks again, any help is welcome.
  4. Yes, even the Macintosh 128k/512k KEYBOARD needs to be recapped: But does it really need to be 63V? Here's the keyboard schematic, with the 1uF cap showing in the upper right area nearest U2: And U2 is the 74LS123 shown here: Sure, I can find a Mouser $3.23 replacement, but why is the stock cap rated at 63V? Is it because people might be stupid and connect the keyboard to a phone jack, or is there some other reason? The reason I even wonder about this is because if lower voltage 1uF caps can
  5. So, I posted here about a year ago about a 128k Macintosh that I got off of craigslist. Since then I figured out that the ram was bad and replaced it. I've got to a point where the computer functions but the video has a major issue. I have been unable to find the issue so far, so here I am again! For further reference, I do have logic probes and an oscilloscope at hand if that helps fix the issue. (Before Ram Replace) (After Ram Fix)
  6. Hi - I have a 128K Mac with a Levco Monster Mac 2MB upgrade card installed in it, and somewhere over the years the covers on the EPROMs on the Monster Mac card have come off... and now the machine comes up to a sad mac icon with an error code of 0180D7; which my brief google search indicates that it's failed a ROM test - unsurprising considering the lack of UV protection on the EPROMs. I don't think the original Apple mask ROMs (they are mask ROMs, aren't they? Not EPROMs? They have no window on them...) are bad; just the EPROMs on the Levco board - so what I need is an image of that -
  7. I thought about putting this in peripherals, but it seemed better here since this type of floppy drive mechanism is exclusive to the 128 and 512K Mac. It is also found inside the guts of M1030 400K external floppy drives. As posted earlier (see links in this post), I have an early 128K Mac that is now fully functioning apart from the fact that it came to me with a non-working floppy drive. After a good bit of puzzling, I discovered that it was an original Sony OA-D34V 400K floppy drive (originally shipped with a stepper motor bearing the round sticker which should work in the 128K
  8. Hello, I recently bought a 128k Mac (non-functioning) and the seller told me that he thought that the 74F253 Ram Multiplexers were bad. But after replacing them with new Motorola ones, the screen still has the same issue. Here is a photo: I have no idea where to got from this point and a google search came up inconclusive. Please Help!!
  9. So I got my parts for restoring my upgraded 128k. The 400k drive was completely seized up which is to be expected. But there is a problem. After lubricating the drive, it was making a continuous clicking noise. I found out that it was the limit switch that homes with head. It was to far away for the little notch to block the light. I loosend the screw holding the switch in place and moved it back a little. The drive homed properly. The drive reads and writes perfectly, But only its own disks. It will not read any disks from any other known working drive. I have multiple 400k formatted disks fr
  10. I got it. I am overly pleased to say the least. by the way, did I mention I got all of this for $300? everything is in mint/brandnew condition. Everything. Zero corrosion anywhere and besides the slight yellowing, its basically brand new. The mouse and keyboard, software, and the entire macintosh and carying bag are mint. The software is still sealed and also looks brand new. The motherboard is the old one with the purple ceramic CPU. The CRT is also one I have not seen yet and has a slightly more yellow tint to the picture. There is no burn in and the screen is very bright, Brighter than my 5
  11. Hi! I have a Macintosh 128K (a European version, 220V) which is converted to a 512K. It looks like just te chipset has been upgraded, but is it done by Apple (see attached photo)? The chips are branded with NEC so that makes me suspicious that it is not. Is this an original Apple-factory upgrade from 128K to 512K or is it done by someone else? Do you have any clue what the “Apple 16” sticker (round, white with red apple logo) on the large chip might mean (see photo)? Best regards, Rob The Netherlands
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