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davidg5678

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Everything posted by davidg5678

  1. Welcome to the 68kmla forum! Recapping the Analog board was definitely the right first step to take, and I think replacing these parts is the next logical thing to do. From what I've seen here over the last few years, these parts seem to be the most commonly failing ones. (After the electrolytic capacitors, of course) --I would also recommend turning the PP1 potentiometer back down again before replacing these components. The new components should fix the voltage problems you are having, and if PP1 is turned up, the voltage may initially be too high. (Generally, I think it is be
  2. I once got a filthy MacBook 1,1 to look almost brand new using a Magic Eraser. I know this is an iBook G4, but they're similar enough. I wiped the computer down with Windex and Isopropyl alcohol first, but a lot of the dirt refused to come off with these chemicals. I think the Magic Eraser's abrasive is necessary to really clean up the discolored palm rests and plastic. Of course the abrasive also leaves a lot of microscopic scratches everywhere on the shiny plastic. Considering how dirty the computer was beforehand, this tradeoff was worth it to me. (Not to mention that it was already badly s
  3. Adjusting the PSU voltage without recapping the PSU first is probably not a good idea. Part of why the voltage is not high enough is because the capacitors have already leaked. Driving the components of the PSU (which are already out of spec) even harder probably will just cause you a big headache later. From what I remember, the voltage rails are both controlled by a single potentiometer. I have linked a video below with instructions for both recapping and adjusting the voltage rails. I think in this case, it might be best to just replace the Power Supply with a modern one. Some p
  4. Hello, It sounds like there might be quite a lot of battery damage on this board. Are you able to provide some high resolution photos of the entire logic board? These photos would help everyone here in terms of evaluating whether or not this logic board is too far gone to repair. These small rectangular parts are readily available SMD 1N914 diodes. They prevent a clock battery that is installed backwards from frying the logic board. If you are just trying to get this computer working again, the clock battery circuit is not strictly necessary, and so you could focus on i
  5. I also read that adjusting the voltages can be really risky if done incorrectly. (It was something about a potentiometer labeled PP1 and the 5V and 12V rails going out of sync.) I think replacing every obvious component first, and seeing where that gets you is probably a good idea. I just repaired my Classic's analog board, and I was struck by just how badly all of the capacitors leaked everywhere. There was greenish-brown sticky goop covering lots of components, and so I spent a ton of time cleaning it up. I didn't really test out my Classic's analog board before recapping it, because I was
  6. The Diodes and Optocoupler just happen to be parts that commonly fail. Replacements are cheap enough that it is probably worth swapping them all out with new ones, even if the existing components are still mostly working correctly. DP3 and DP4 are called 1N4148 Diodes. These make it so that electrical current can only flow in one direction. If you type this part number into an electronics website such as Digi-key, suitable replacements are about 10 cents. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/on-semiconductor/1N4148/458603 The Optocoupler is designed to transmit a
  7. Yes, they should be the same. That was a typo. The iBooks are all IDE compatible.
  8. This is roughly how I set up my Powerbook 1400. I wanted to use System 7.6.1, but only could make 1.44MB floppy disks for my Powerbook. What I ended up doing, was formatting the Compact Flash card using the Powerbook, and then mounting it within Basilisk II on my modern computer. I then was able to install the operating system and software using my modern iMac. When I plugged the CF card back into the Powerbook, everything from the emulator was still there, and it worked perfectly. Something important to note is that large capacity CF cards may give you a bit of trouble. I could no
  9. Unfortunately, it would not work. This is a SATA SSD which is incompatible with the iBook G3. An adapter to make this drive fit would be too large for a laptop. The parts I linked retain the proper connectors for IDE, and they will fit inside your computer correctly. The SSD link I sent was for a 120GB drive, but you could get a 32GB drive for $5 or $6 dollars less. It would probably still be bigger than whatever failed inside the iBook. Alternatively, you could try this product: https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Digital-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00DGNYXQ0/ref=pd_sbs_147_3/139-797469
  10. This adapter should be exactly the same size as the original hard drive, so there shouldn't be any size concerns. I think they might be referring to another kind of adapter meant for desktop PCs rather than laptops like this one. The connector is 2.5" IDE which should also be compatible with the connector inside the iBook. I think several other people on this forum have had success with these parts, so they should be able to confirm this. (I bought them for my own iBook, but never got around to installing them )
  11. These should be adequate. There are a lot of toxic chemicals on these circuit boards (including lead), so putting them into a dishwasher that cleans things you eat off of doesn't seem like a good idea to me. A lot of people swear by this technique, but it doesn't seem very healthy to me. You probably can fix this board without using an oscilloscope. Most of the time, cleaning the logic board with Isopropyl alcohol and replacing the capacitors fixes things. The analog board and power supply may also need new capacitors, but it is best to start with the logic board. I agree that re-f
  12. Not at all. I would definitely recommend replacing it with an inexpensive and speedier SSD drive though. Something like this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/mSATA-44pin-Notebook-Laptop-Enclosure/dp/B01GRMUQRG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ide+to+msata&qid=1609338268&sr=8-1 and this SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Zheino-120GB-Internal-Notebooks-Tablets/dp/B07F8P7VY3/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/139-7974699-0572325?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07F8P7VY3&pd_rd_r=91e61fed-9cfc-4dca-a76f-6fea1ecb5b4b&pd_rd_w=9yCis&pd_rd_wg=PIzQ8&pf_rd_p=f325d01c-4658-4593-be83-3e
  13. This is a tricky problem! I think I would still attempt to remove the PRAM battery, despite the very brittle plastics. There is no absolute guarantee that the plastics will break, or that the battery will leak, but I personally would much rather glue plastics back together than repair a logic board with battery acid damage. I definitely wouldn't install a new battery if it isn't necessary for the machine to turn on. I wonder if very slightly heating the clips with a hairdryer would be enough to make them a bit more flexible during the disassembly process? Presumably, cold plastic is slightly m
  14. Neat idea! I think there a few challenges to overcome in order to get this to work. The trickiest one is latency. Part of what makes using a real microscope great is that there is not any delay between moving your hand and seeing it move. Transmitting video data usually adds a delay of a few milliseconds, especially if it is wireless and high resolution. Maybe with some wires and very fast (or no) video processing, an acceptable latency could be achieved. The other thing to figure out is optics. I think it is possible to purchase stand alone microscope objectives and ot
  15. Hello, I am working through recapping my Classic's (630-0525) analog board, and I have another question about component values. DP5 and DP7 both looked very saturated in cap goo (the metal turned green), so I decided to pull them both off of the board. Unfortunately, my Isopropyl alcohol took the labels off of them. I have some EGP30D diodes on hand, but according to schematics for a slightly different board revision, only one of the diodes would work. Is it safe to use two EGP30D diodes, or do I need to buy some new parts? Thanks!
  16. That flyback transformer looks like it has had a very difficult life. The brown glue around the center post started off as a light tan color, but it looks pretty burnt to me at this point. The brass-colored bracket probably needs to be connected for a reason (I think it has to do with grounding). I think that this is worth replacing, if you can find the parts to do so. I've read that spare transformers have become quite rare at this point, so you may have better luck buying an entire replacement analog board. @JDW may have some additional thoughts on this topic, as I know he made a
  17. Can you provide some photographs of the logic board? These would help a lot in diagnosing the problems you are having with it. There is likely some degree of corrosion present on the board, as this is usually what causes the issues you are describing. It may just be hard to spot without some bright lights and magnification. Look for dull metal and fuzzy green things around the chips and their legs. The board will definitely need to be recapped. Without pictures, it is hard to say anything about the battery holder. If you need to remove it, a soldering iron is definitely necessary t
  18. It sounds to me like the best thing to do is make a bootable USB drive then. There are several guides and files available online detailing what to do. This link might help: https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/115120/boot-from-usb-ibook-g4-power-pc
  19. Thanks, everyone! I just placed my (ridiculously large) Digi-Key order. Hopefully, I will be able to bring a few Macintosh Classics back to life in the coming weeks. I'll try to keep this thread updated, as I am sure there will be some troubleshooting in my future.
  20. Hello all, I have a Macintosh Classic Analog board that I am planning to recap, and I am now also the newest owner of four nonfunctional Classic logic boards. I'm trying to put together a shopping cart to order all of the appropriate components, but I am having trouble deciding which parts to buy. I know that there are several analog board parts that commonly fail, and I would like to buy replacements for all of those preemptively. I know similar questions to this are frequently asked about the Classic, but I was not able to find any posts that answered all of my questi
  21. I'll buzz out that circuit and try swapping the chip out.
  22. I suppose there is nothing at all wrong with buying a copy of Tiger off eBay. You just have to make sure to get a universal version for all the powerpc computers, and not a single machine/Intel version. I suggested it because I can't stand waiting for things to come in the mail.
  23. Update on this board: I decided to re-recap everything, as I wanted to make certain that there were not any shorts between the capacitors and traces nearby. I removed all of my capacitors, applied solder-mask to the many exposed traces I found, and put the capacitors back. I also removed a few crusty looking ICs, cleaned up underneath them, and soldered them back down. The board certainly looks neater, but remains very broken. Interestingly, it now alternates between displaying the same screen as pictured above, and a blank gray screen. The gray screen shows no cursor o
  24. You can also burn a DVD or USB of Tiger yourself, if you'd like. Since you already own several copies (albeit currently non-functional ones) of Tiger, I see no reason why the copies of Tiger floating around the internet should not work. In fact, it is probably less risky to do it this way, as a lot of the DVDs on eBay are machine specific and run the risk of being duds. I think there is also a way to clone the DVD you already have to another disk, and edit a plist to make it work on more computers. --edit-- I found a guide here: https://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/279088-how-to-patch-any-m
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