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Tonebender

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Everything posted by Tonebender

  1. Alright, alright. But it seems like there's a slim chance that the motherboard is gonna work at all. And if it's not, I'm not gonna bother to find a store that sells the correct battery and waste my money on it. In that case I'm just gonna toss the Maxell in the recycling bin and be done with it. Any ideas on the simasimac problem? I really appreciate all the help you guys have given me so far!
  2. I'll check the voltage on the battery again, but I seem to recall it's okay. (Yes, I know it should be replaced anyways.) I'm not sure exactly how good the chime is supposed to sound, so it's difficult to judge, but I haven't noticed anything odd with it. It's not off key, to my ears, but sound quality may be a little distorted, but not very obviously. It's also quite short and cuts off abruptly at the end. I've already posted the voltages from the analog board in this thread (see previous page and replies). Thing is, this computer works fine with another (SE) motherboard in it, so I f
  3. Okay, here's a whole bunch of large pics: It's the first time I recap a board, although it's far from the first time I solder things, so it's not the neatest job ever. I know C6 and C9 look suspicious, but they all check okay with the multimeter. While many of the caps don't sit very straight, I made sure they solder joints were good. In general, the board looks pretty clean, doesn't it? Underneath the old caps were very faint signs of leakage; nothing that seemed to have flowed around at all. I did clean the whole board after removing the old caps. And I j
  4. Thanks for the ideas! Yes, I get the chimes. With RAM (and ROM) simms mounted, I get the normal single bong. Without RAM (but ROM still mounted), I get what I believe is the slow death chime -- it's a succession of notes which sounds like a major chord arpeggio.
  5. Alright, so now I've recapped my SE/30 logic board with tantalum caps, but when I turn the computer on, all I see is this: I tried this SE/30 logic board in my SE FDHD, which gives the same results, while my SE logic board works in the SE/30 box, which indicates that the error is with the SE/30 logic board. I also tried booting the SE/30 without RAM simms mounted, and the screen is the same (while the bong is that major chord arpeggio instead). Any ideas? This is really quite tiresome...
  6. No problem. I'm not anywhere near installing system 8 yet, and honestly I probably never will. But it's nice to know I have the option -- I didn't know system 8 would work at all on an SE/30. For now I'm still at recapping the logic board, and when I finally get the thing to boot and run system 6 off a floppy, it's time to start looking for good alternatives to a hard drive.
  7. Good ideas everyone! Zip drive is definitely an option, which I hadn't thought about at all, but a little clunky I guess. Investing in a SCSI2SD card looks like the smoothest option in the long run; I just need to lay low on the spendings right now. The Appletalk connection idea is cool! I sorta grew up using Macintosh Classics connected to an Appletalk network at school, so that's a nice nostalgic configuration and a nice way to use both my compact macs simultaneously.
  8. I'm currently repairing an SE/30 and an SE FDHD, and I'm considering different ways of improving their data storage capabilities. Especially on the SE FDHD since it lacks a harddrive. I'm also short on money, and the CF memory card solution seems to be fairly expensive with the SCSI-to-IDE adapter. Are there any cheap routes that I have missed, besides getting a used scsi harddrive?
  9. Thanks for the replies people! This subject was more diverse than I expected. CelGen -- you wouldn't sell one tablet + pen to me?
  10. Thanks for the tip! Now I just discovered that the other floppy drive in the same SE is also having some kind of issues. It can read mac-formatted disks no problem, but when I try to format them, they always fail at the verification phase. Anyone knows anything about that?
  11. Hm, maybe you're right, but what makes me think it's not a lubrication issue is the fact that the drive behaves the exact same every time I test it. This includes movements and number of buzzing sounds, etc. And it doesn't appear to have any troubles with the moving parts. But who knows. There are floppy drives available for a decent price on eBay, so that's one solution if all else fails. On the other hand, I might just ditch it and install some kind of memory card instead, since this SE lacks a harddrive and has one functioning floppy drive already. But I thought it would be kinda neat t
  12. I checked the voltages on the same locations in my working SE, and the voltages there are the same, for example -9.3 volts where you say it should be -12, and 5.4 where it should be 5.0. But I don't know, it may be sweating a bit...
  13. Thanks for the tips! Yesterday, I took the device apart, reading the 68kmla wiki floppy lubrication tutorial. I removed dust and tried to make sure the moving parts are moving. I didn't find any parts that needed obvious lubrication, everything seems to move smoothly. The heads seem well aligned, and I also cleaned them with some disc/tape/head cleaner (alcohol on a q-tip). But it doesn't work still. I tried operating and observing the drive when it was out of its case. The disk and the head motor spins a little while, but then just stops.
  14. I have a Mac SE FDHD where the second floppy drive is behaving bad. The eject mechanism works fine, but when I insert a working diskette, it makes the normal disk read sounds a very few times (and in the meantime the mouse pointer gets kinda stuck, as if the computer is working hard). It then gives the dialog saying "This disk is unreadable. Do you want to initialize it?" every time. I've tried with two Mac formatted HD diskettes - both work in the first drive but gives the above behaviour in the second. What to do?
  15. Okay ... So recapping the PSU, do you mean recapping the analog board or replacing caps in the actual PSU unit?
  16. Yes, I did check the voltages, but wasn't sure about what they should be. On the harddrive power molex connector, they are 11.9, 0, 0, and 5.4 VDC. The connector to the logic board gives -9.2, -4.9, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0 on the first row (left to right) and 11.9, 5.4, 5.4, 1.6, 1.6, 1.6, 0 on the second row. All measured when not connected. I believe they are okay until further notice. I would gladly put the SE/30 logic board back in to the SE/30, but one electrolytic capacitor is broken off (my fault), so I'm going to recap the board before I can use it again. I have the correct tantalum caps at ha
  17. Hmm, now that I think of it, maybe the SE logic board (currently mounted in the SE/30) can't handle the 1,44 MB disk drive in which I try to boot from a HD floppy ...
  18. Good news! This is almost embarrassing, but I tried adjusting the "cut-off" (brightness) control on the side of the analog board, and suddenly the screen as well and alive. I now see the question mark diskette symbol on boot. Darned, I really should have tried this earlier. But I did have the vertical line thing previously, so who knows what's been going on. Now I could use some more help, although I don't know exactly where to proceed. This SE/30 currently has an SE logic board in it, so I'm not totally sure how well that works (SE boards should work in an SE/30, right?). But the floppy
  19. When I get my Mac SE and SE/30 up and running properly, it would be awesome to have a drawing pad to use with them. What I mean is a plastic pad that you connect to the Mac like a mouse and on which you draw with a special pen, like a modern Wacom pad or similar. Are such things possible to find? What brands/names should I look for?
  20. Alright, so I started to resolder some of the solder joints on the back of the analog board, and now the screen is totally dead. No vertical line any more. I didn't resolder many joints, but I did the ones for the yoke connector, and R19 and a few more in the same corner of the board. I also measured the voltages on the external floppy connector on the back of the Mac (as per Classic Mac Repair Notes) and they seem okay (+12.6, +12.6, +5.02, -11.5). This is starting to bug me a bit now...
  21. I've now tested the SE/30 with a different logic board, one from an SE. The board looks fine and I'm fairly positive it works, but the SE/30 is behaving the same: black screen with the vertical line, one plong from the speaker, fan spinning, but otherwise dead. I suppose I need to do what eR1c and some others have referred to -- go through the analog board. I've also measured the voltages from the PSU/analog board, and they are a bit strange in some cases, although it isn't clear how my low-budget multimeter is showing AC voltage.
  22. Another question -- if I put a working SE logic board in a faulty SE/30, is there any (reasonable) risk that the working logic board will be messed up by incorrect voltages and such from a broken PSU/analog board?
  23. Can I take a logic board from a Mac SE and put it in an SE/30 and it'll work right away (given that there are no defects anywhere) ? It would be useful for debugging purposes on my compact macs.
  24. Thanks for the quick replies, and Elfen - thanks for the thourough reply. I suppose I should start with what bibilit says: check the PSU outputs to make sure there's power there at all. I did adjust the brightness control now, and noticed there is a faint vertical line straight through the middle (although not continuous) of the otherwise black screen. Does this mean anything?
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