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aladds

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Posts posted by aladds

  1. I know that there are versions of NU which can corrupt files when paired with "incorrect" system versions (Usually old NU with a more modern system), but I always thought you had to actually *run* it for that to occur.

     

    The fact you were able to re-copy files and things issues not occur again rules out anything hardware related in my opinion.

     

    7.5.3 is also pretty buggy - could just be some issue there?

  2. 1 hour ago, cheesestraws said:

     

    Well, the photo in that thread is the one I'm running my eMate off and it's fine—I'm not sure what Newton it originally came with, but it works (though I don't have batteries in mine so can't check charging).  The other one listed in the thread is also 7V, so I'm guessing that maybe they upped the nominal voltage to 7.5 but the old ones work fine?

    Exactly that. Earlier ones are 3W (7V, 0.5A) chargers and later ones 9W (7.5V, 1.2A).

     

    The only downside of the earlier charger is it'll take longer to charge.

     

    There is also doubt in various communities regarding using a "non-original" power supply with Newtons. As long as the supply you use is a centre positive, DC regulated 7.5V supply and can sustain that at 1.2A, it's fine. I actually have a little board with a boost PSU from 5v USB to 8v, and a single diode drop giving ~7.3v, and that runs my eMate perfectly.

  3. So I've done a number of battery re-cell projects in the past, and the eMate is indeed not too difficult, you're right! :)

     

    These would work fine for the eMate, although being 2500mAh would take a bit longer to charge than the original  - with the benefit of considerably longer runtime of course!!

     

    Another option, since you've got quite a lot of space in the battery compartment, is using a 4xAA tray:

     

    Check about 60% of the way down this page (search for "Try a Tray")

    https://web.archive.org/web/20200214033606/http://planetstephanie.net/2005/10/21/newton-pages/

     

    This way you could use regular NiMH AA cells, and you'd only have to solder 2 wires.

     

    Whichever method you choose, do make sure that the black thermistor is touching the batteries when you reassemble it, since that's how the eMate knows when to stop charging the batteries (NiMH cells are strange beasts - I recently learnt a lot more about them by buying an old hybrid car, but that's another story...)

  4. I think it's an M7 diode, since the marking on the chip is more like "M721KV" on my one.

     

    Here’s a data sheet:

    https://www.kingtronics.com/pdf/M7-diode.pdf

     

    So I desoldered it and did some basic testing - sadly I don't have a 1kV voltage reference to test with, but I tested up to 25V reverse bias and it didn't pass any current (it has a 0.651V drop in the forward bias direction, didn't write down the current but the datasheet says it should pass an amp).

     

    Since it's for PSU protection, there's a good chance it is indeed that 1kV device, and even if you can't find something like that locally, an equivalent in the same package would likely be fine.

     

    If you’re not worried about plugging in a backwards PSU you could just leave it out - as long as you don’t repeat the same mistake(!)

     

    However, there is a fuse you should probably test on the other side of the board (I should have taken a photo) as that may also be blown. 

     

    2617ACC0-10A7-49E1-8FF1-61658B447B70.jpeg

  5. Honestly, the way Newton packages are "compiled" would mean that if you knew what you were looking for, you probably could work it out.

     

    (Thing is, you'd still need a copy of the "real" package, and that probably came on a floppy disk when you bought the software - but at the point you've got that you probably also had a pirated serial. So perhaps this wasn't too Naiive)

     

    Having the source makes it much easier to find, though!

     

    What amazes me most is that I know Newtons have a "device ID" tied to the username - a lot of software from the era uses that as part of the key generation process, but this doesn't. *That* would solve the "borrowed a key from a friend" piracy.

  6. So whilst there seems to be an issue sorting out the source code, I found a stuffit archive inside the NS Basic 4 source folder which contained the NewtCard source which wasn't corrupt (hooray!)

     

    Inside there I searched the source for "serial" and found the routine to check it: (x-10000017)%127=0

     

    I generated my own serial number by choosing a number, 20, multiplying it by 127 and adding 10000017, which gave me 10002557.

     

    And that serial, amazingly, works in both NewtCard and NS Basic to make the app work :)

  7. Anyone tried to get these to work? I've loaded both into Einstein, and sadly both request a serial number...which I can't seem to find.

    I wonder if this is something we're going to need to patch out of it, or maybe (hopefully!) it's in some of the additional documentation buried amongst the code.....

     

    I guess I'll have to crack out NTK and take a peek at what's going on!

  8. When I worked in the cinema industry about 5 years ago, we had a similar issue with DCP projectors, since very few AV devices can output native 2k - the solution was an input scaler like the Kramer AV VP-424. That will take WUXGA in and output whatever you like, although be warned that the scaling will make the picture somewhat fuzzy if the scaling doesn't match nicely. Plus they're not cheap...

  9. Yep I think it will mostly be just a desk clock. I am going to add some speakers to the monitor (when parts arrive) and since it’s a pi running full Linux I might see how good the sound would be to have it as an AirPlay speaker too. 
     

    I may also see if I could use it as a notification screen; HyperCard can talk to networks after all :)

     

    The Quadra :quadra: case isn’t mine, you can find that here:

     

    All the parts to make the display are on my GitHub as above. I’ve not changed the front of the screen yet so the bezel doesn’t fit perfectly at the bottom, I will change that I think. I’ve also not made a bracket for the controller board or anything for the ports to go through yet. There’s still a decent amount of space to design a good sound box for some speakers I think.
     

    The screen is from AliExpress:
    https://a.aliexpress.com/_uGLGLt

     

    The little board on the back (I’ve not finished the internals of the monitor yet) is the boost power supply - I want to have a neat _appropriately sized_ connector for power (and possibly audio if I can’t work out how to do it over HDMI).

     

    And I’ve ordered a better MiniHDMI-HDMI cable which is a lot shorter, too. The current one is overkill!

  10. I’ve made the corners (STLs on my GitHub: https://github.com/aladds/3D-Apple-Objects-STL ) and put it together. The screen, being HDMI, is pixel-perfect, which is excellent, but the front case does need a small mod to cover up more of the bezel. I think I did a pretty good job, though, considering I guessed the cutout based on a picture on the LCD’s listing page!

     

    The thing runs from 12v, but it draws less than amp, so I got a tiny boost power supply and hooked it through to the Pi’s 5v lines. The whole thing still runs from a USB port - although I should probably measure its current to be sure it’s within spec!

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    image.jpg

    50F509A7-65E2-4F7B-BF2B-13A417F2EF73.jpeg

  11. So in the 3D printed object thread, markyb86 made an excellent Quadra Pi zero case. I made a matching AppleColour RGB monitor designed to fit a small 640x480 LCD module

     

    The module has arrived and I have made it work!

     

    I also spent some time making a working Basilisk II image with a HyperCard clock (WildClock, it’s on archive.org if you search for it)

     

    The “loose” wire is correcting a grounding issue which took me longer than it should have to fix.

     

    Now I have to put it all together!

    E17F1645-BD2A-4F99-8C6A-EFDEEC88C406.jpeg

    1299BCCA-0D5E-424F-95BF-C542BA736CA6.jpeg

  12. 17 hours ago, Trash80toHP_Mini said:

    Lovely! Totally agree with @markyb86 on the awesomeness comment.

     

    3dot5-inch-Portrait-on-IIsi-or-jaunty-angle-LC475.thumb.JPG.384475858c6d1324c8c099e4851c4633.JPG

     

    If I squint my eyes just rso, it looks like the Macintosh Portrait Display sitting on a IIsi or placed at a jaunty angle atop an LC475? :lisa2:

     

    edit: thinking about those machines (and eeeks! from @Danamania on seeing a Quadra 605/Portrait combo) I realized a thing or two might work out a tad better. They'd be much easier to do with the Portrait Display acting as the lid of the case. The setback and height of the joint becomes an intentional mimic of real world spacing.

     

    The same might be true for your Q700/IIci form factor case if substituting the 13" RGB as an inset lid? Fitted 12" RGB for the LC series also becomes an interesting possibility?

     

    Like this?

     

    (Plus it looks way better with something inside it, even if it is just a phone sock in this case!)

     

    Edit: I'm uploading everything to github for now, too. It has an embedded STL viewer as well! https://github.com/aladds/3D-Apple-Objects-STL

     

    8052EEC0-444C-44C6-8BE4-3823F6EC514A.jpg

  13. I have started to create a 3.5" "AppleColour High Reoslution RGB Monitor" - I've even found a 640x480 HDMI LCD module to go inside - although sadly that'll take weeks to get here on the slow boat from AliExpress.

     

    I'm even planning on giving it speakers so I can use it as a mini alarm clock.

     

    As an aside, I have noticed that a bare-metal Amiga emulator seems to exist which runs on the Raspberry Pi without Linux. Now as some people know, some Amiga emulators can emulate a 68k Mac.....

     

    image.png.e79d03edd471f8dbeabeb13923a11d32.pngimage.png.54c1fc42312d733e45a30cadca2d976d.png

  14. I found a little LED which fits in the corner hole, still need to pop a little hot glue to hold the wires neatly but otherwise it’s good.

     

    I do still want to make a little door for the MicroSD card, and fit/wire up some buttons

    94DF6668-65C4-49A2-91FE-74775FABFE81.jpeg

  15. Thanks again! I’ve already printed the lid, and the main case is about 5% in. This is really well designed and it’s coming out very well! (We have noticed that the printer is slightly wonky, though, but we’ll fix that afterwards because it’s not entirely noticeable and the lid won’t fit if we change it now!

     

     

    image.jpg

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