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  1. @Dog Cow It has not chimed at all during this troubleshooting. The computer was working 10 years ago before it was put into storage. I have not turned it on prior to the recapping.
  2. I've been continuing my recapping of my compact macs, successfully recapping my 512ke's analog and logic board. That computer is running solid. My attempts to get my 128k going have been another story. What I do know: The 128k's analog board is OK, tried the 512ke logic board with it, boots fine. The 128k's ROMs have been reseated, and the socket DeOxit-ed Verified the 128k ROMs work by swapping it into 512ke logic board, it booted fine Solder joints for connectors cleaned and resoldered on the 128k analog and logic board Voltages are OK (4.99
  3. Sorry I didn't follow up! Analog board is fine as far as I can tell, I'm certain it's a logic board issue. If I apply pressure to the underside of the board (or have some cardboard with an anti-static bag wedged under the logic board) I can start the computer and use it fine. Without it, the board does nothing. I've been using it for the past couple of weeks with that wedged underneath with no issue, even upgraded the RAM, and still works. I am sure something is loose, or needs to be resoldered, but haven't nailed down what yet. I thought it might be the ROM, however using a band o
  4. Are these the 5 socketed ICs next to the RAM banks or UA8-UG8? Are these generic ICs that I can order replacements, or are specific Apple ICs? I should add, that the video seems to have stabilized and looked crisp and clear, however when I shut it down and turned it on again, it returned. I tried adjusting the cut-off knob per the Dead Mac Scrolls book (p. 167), but that didn't fix the fritzing. It did stabilize faster after that power off, so I'm thinking something has warmed up?
  5. THANK YOU! Lots of progress. I pulled the Video ROM IC and the other ICs on the board, swabbed them with some DeOxit, and reseated them, and was reliably able to boot the board in the SE, enough to the point where on the 4th try, I had the keyboard/mouse and floppy hooked up. Finally tried it in the SE/30 chassis and for the first time ever, it chimed and had video in it's own home! I've repeated the steps, two power cycles with only power and speaker, then with floppy and keyboard, and was able to boot from floppy. Tried again with the hard drive it came with and still success!!!
  6. So possible progress? I reflowed all the connections on J12 as @dochilli suggested, it did not fire up in the SE/30 chassis, but put into the SE chassis, I got it to chime and show video twice, powering down and up for each, only power and speaker hooked up. Upon trying to connect floppy and keyboard and powering up again, it went back to no chime/no video. That tells me that there is life in the board, if it can still come up to the flashing disk. Going to pull socketed ICs next and give those a alcohol scrub, Is it likely to be broken traces if I've had th
  7. Yes, hitting reset sounds makes the speaker crackle, still no chime/video.
  8. My SE's analog board worked with it's own logic board and did work (not anymore) with the SE/30 logic board. The SE/30 logic board never worked with the SE/30's analog board. For testing purposes, I've had just RAM, speaker, and power connector hooked up, no floppy drive or hard drive. When the SE/30 board is with the SE/30 analog board and I turn it on, the fan does spin up, I hear a crack in the speaker, and if the hard drive is connected, it will spin up, and the floppy drive makes a brief noise if that's connected. Screen stays completely dark. Here's th
  9. Hello, I recently acquired a SE/30 that was sold to me as non-working. Upon cracking it open, I was relieved that the battery had not leaked, and there was minor leakage from the other caps on the logic board. I did not try turning it on, preferring to go straight to recapping. I've recapped the whole logic board, cleaned the leakage with alcohol and ,tested continuity on all the caps based on the schematics. Upon reinstalling it, still had no joy. I dug out a spare SE and slapped in my re-capped SE/30 board, and instant chime and got a cursor and was able to boot to a hard drive.
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