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  1. Thought this overview of open-toolchain FPGA hardware might be of interest to hardware hackers looking to build new projects with FPGAs: https://www.ktemkin.com/exploring-open-fpga-hardware/
  2. Love this game, thanks for fixing this issue!
  3. Looks great! Love the dramatic photos. Seems like the picture is not distorted, guessing you didn't have to mess with the magnets much? I gotta find one of these green CRTs.
  4. Socket wrench was all I needed, looked more difficult than it was. The yoke was a bit of a pain just because it’s fragile and lots of wires were around limiting movement. There’s goo around the anode so wear gloves!
  5. I messed with the centering rings and improved the picture, but there's still larger geometric distortion on the top and bottom right. I'm looking at maccaps guide and tried to rotate them a bit with needle nose pliers but they were hard to move and adjusted things in unexpected ways since they didn't rotate cleanly - you let off the pliers and the picture looks different than when rotating. I could only safely access four of them. Would love to learn more about how to do this, what tool to use, and which ones to adjust for what problems. I'll take a look at that service manual.
  6. Also here's better pics of the flyback transformer it came with.
  7. Got it working @jessenator! Note the anode (red hole coming out of CRT) is on the opposite side relative to Mac CRTs. You can tell because the neckboard connectors on the amber monitor are 180* off - the missing pin should be on the top left if you're looking at it from the back. Other than that its a drop-in replacement and easy to swap the yoke and get it running. Instructions, largely cribbed from techknight's video posted earlier: Remove amber CRT from existing monitor electronics Remove neckboard and yoke from your Mac's CRT (unscrew yoke and wiggle and wait for
  8. For anyone curious, I bought one of the ones on ebay that @jessenator mentioned, and it looks like a drop-in replacement without the need for physical adapters. I haven't yet swapped the yoke as I'm a bit short on time these days and cautious around high voltage electronics Ironically my grandfather was an IEEE fellow who specialized in power rectifiers and I am all but ignorant of the field. Since these amber monitors are new-old stock they're also in perfect shape with that new-old electronics smell. I wonder if the flyback transformer from this can be swapped into the Mac anal
  9. The current steel frame of the SE/30 has a few jobs: Hold the logic board in place above the bottom of the chassis Provide mounting points for the analog board and front case Support a hard drive and a floppy drive Support any PDS cards from moving around Hold the expansion backplate Provide general structural integrity Now that we've got clear SE/30 cases courtesy of @maceffects, this thing gets in the way of seeing parts of the inside, especially the logic board. My thought is: wouldn't it'd be great if the frame were a clear acrylic instea
  10. Definitely salvaging what I can from this board! At some point my six half-working SE/30s will become three working ones According to the Xceed Color 30 manual, it outputs 640x480 @ 67Hz, so isn't compatible with my 2001 NEC LCD unfortunately. Wish there was some 67Hz -> 60Hz adapter or reencoder out there but I've never seen one.
  11. After 7 years and dozens of various acquisitions, I've finally got a Micron Xceed! Pretty excited about getting it running. It came from a rusted SE/30 from eBay. I believe this is a Color 30 model. The only damage is some rusting on the PDS connector. After some toothbrush cleaning it looks decent. The card shows up in TattleTech (I think, below is what I see) when running in a good SE/30 and not plugged into a monitor. I've run into some trouble with video out, which may that my external monitor finally gave out, or perhaps it outputs at a resolutio
  12. Slightly esoteric question, but to reduce the swapping of accelerators, is it possible to have BOTH a socketed Daystar Powercache 030 AND a Daystar Turbo 040 in the machine, and simply flip the 040 software switch to pick between them? That way you'd have the fastest 030 and 040 in a single machine without having to swap. This of course assumes you have the power to power these, but that's doable with new power supplies.
  13. Same sign me up, want to go all-in on a bolle special maccon
  14. Sign me up for one as well if these become available. Love the work you’re doing.
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