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PotatoFi

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Everything posted by PotatoFi

  1. More news! I swapped my 4x16 mb sticks into Bank B, and I installed my 4x256 kb sticks into Bank A. Backwards, I know... but it boots again! I was able to boot into a System Tools disk, and it shows 2 mb of RAM. Is that an indicator that it's working, and I just need to install mode32? Also, the sound is still not working. When I adjust the sound, the speaker pops, but there is no actual sound.
  2. Okay, I have some good news, and some bad news. The good news is that the sound does seem to work! The bad news is that I installed my 4x16mb sticks of RAM in Bank A, and now when I power on the machine, it shows horizontal zebra stripes, and goes "CHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIME" continuously, and very loudly.
  3. Yeah, that's a good point. My issue right now is that I can't get 256 colors, because my monitor (and adapter) only support 640x480. So if I can get a 12" CRT, 512x384, and 256 colors, I'll be a totally happy camper.
  4. Okay, I think I need a bit more help. @techknight, I'm looking to you a little bit! Still waiting on RAM so I haven't actually booted up an OS on this thing, but as noted early, there is no chime or bong. It's the same thing from both the speaker and the 3.5mm headphone jack. There are a couple of very short pops or clicks from the speaker when I first turn on the power switch. I went ahead and recapped my analog board (not the power supply, just the A/B) not expecting a fix, but worth nothing that there was no change in behavior. My guesses: Bad/eaten trace on
  5. Thanks @MrFahrenheit! It was a fun project. Thanks for checking it out! --- One thing I'd like to get for this is 512kb of VRAM. Anything that is meant for the LC-series seems to fetch about $40 on eBay. Are there any cheaper places I could look? Anything generic that would work?
  6. I've seen some cool projects where people embed a screen behind the CRT glass. Maybe it could be used for something like that. Let me know if you decide that the floppy is bad. I am looking for a seek motor + leadscrew and eject motor for that Awful SE FDHD that I have. Also watching for a set of expansion bracket screws. Also, while I don't know anything about the videocard... I'm sure it's worth more than $50. Sad that the Maxell bomb went off and that the CRT neck is cracked, but overall I think you did good for fifty bucks.
  7. I think it’s amber, but I can’t remember. The Twenty One Pilots lyric video that they just posted features a SuperDrive with a red LED (I just watched it moments ago). I hoped to get it back out today to check but didn’t have time. As for converting a drive, yeah. If you look above, you’ll see a beige “smooth” 800k enclosure. I bought it without an actual drive, and put a SuperDrive in it. AFAIK, if you plug a SuperDrive into a Plus or SE, it will act like an 800k drive. But if you plug it into an SE, Classic, SE/30, or Classic II, it will be a SuperDrive. I think.
  8. Did you ever figure this out? My SE/30 has been recapped, and has the same problem.
  9. Agreed, the floppy drive cleaned up great! I thought it was interesting that the inside was super clean and completely rust-free, whereas all of the other items I receive have rust and water damage. They were stored in a basement in Eastern Idaho, which is a high desert. A very dry climate that is hot in the summer and cold in the winter. My guess is that the basement flooded at some point. My thoughts exactly. I would be happy to pull the board and send it your way, or get you better photos to help assess the damage. Just let me know what you need.
  10. Quick update on the haul! Macintosh SE FDHD It boots! Turning out to be a pretty okay restoration, actually. Check out the thread if you haven't already. Macintosh 6115CD This isn't going to be pretty... brace yourself. Sadly, it is almost completely gutted. I thought maybe the logic board would be good, but... Yeah, nope. There's basically nothing salvageable here. The CPU has multiple bent and broken pins. Can anyone use any parts out of this? Are there any IC's in here that might be recoverable?
  11. Okay, time for another update! I am restoring several Macs all at the same time right now, so I happened to have a tub of hydrogen peroxide going outside, along with some hot sunny weather. With cold, cloudy weather on the horizon (and the other two Macs done with Retrobrite), I decided to get the SE/30 run through as well. I'm also getting this written down now, because my photo roll on my phone is three Macs in various stages - very difficult to remember which is which! Here it was before teardown. Pretty nice unit! A few scratches but
  12. Agreed, this looks pretty good as far as Maxell bombs go! Keep us updated!
  13. I did one with 3D-printed parts. If you want a set, I'd happily print them off and send them your way. I have two MiniScribes in my office that don't work (one blew a capacitor yesterday, as you know) and would like to see a repair method as well.
  14. I popped the plate off, removed the one central gear, swabbed everything out, put a couple drops of teflon lubricant in, and snapped it back together. So I was only in the gearbox, definitely not into the motor itself. If you think I need to tear it further apart, let me know. As for alignment of the drive, can you elaborate? I only removed the motor and leadscrew. The heads are still on their rail that they slide forward and backward on. I've manually turned the leadscrew on other drives for cleaning and haven't had any problems. Good to know about the capacitor! I didn't
  15. I decided to test the floppy drive outside of the machine. Unfortunately, despite a thorough cleaning and lubrication, there are a couple of problems. First off, the eject motor doesn't quite get the job done. It really labors, despite my careful cleaning and lubrication. By hand, disks eject very smoothy. The eject motor on the other hand sounds very labored, and it doesn't complete a 360° trip like I think it should. The second problem is more serious. I noticed that the R/W heads do not actuate. I removed the two socket cap screws that hold the motor in,
  16. Ugh, the floppy drive. I've done a lot of these lately, and I'm not gunna lie: it's become a bit of a chore. I'm just over it. But, it has to be done. Yikes, pretty rusty, but it looks okay. Let's see how the bottom looks. Hrm, not great, but the drive motor spins freely, which makes me think that this will be salvageable with a bit of cleaning. My other restoration threads have tons of instructions on how to take these apart, so check those out if you're looking for more details. Here's the top carriage popped off.
  17. Back with another update! It's a pretty exciting one that even includes some magic smoke! Curious? Read on... Before soldering the shield back onto the logic board, I decided to clean up the I/O ports a little bit. Here's what they looked like before: And here's after working on them with some 1000-grit sandpaper. Much better! Extreme closeup! Whooooaaaahhh! After slotting in the RF shield, I bent the tabs like they were before. It was pretty easy to solder the shield in since it was held in place.
  18. Fantastic! I have two more SE analog boards to recap in the next couple of days. Thank you very much for the tip!
  19. Before I put everything back together, I cleaned the Analog Board shield. I forgot to get a "clean" photo of it, sorry about that! But rest assured that it is very clean now. All that's left is the Logic Board. Since the battery blew up, the original battery holder was absolutely toast. Luckily, it didn't seem to do much damage around it! The orange stuff that you see I believe is some kind of adhesive, not fallout from the battery. But the through-holes for the battery were a total mess. To burn through all of the corr
  20. This restoration is getting SUPER close to being done. At this point in time, I had three compact Macs torn apart at once, so I decided to put a few things back together to reduce the chaos a bit. First, I hot glued the speaker back into the front of the case. I just do a dab of hot blue where the plastic posts were. The trick is to push the glue down into the holes a bit to hold it into place. CRT reinstalled, chassis installed. Floppy/hard drive bracket installed. No more rusty chassis! Next,
  21. Next, it was time to clean and lubricate the floppy drive. Before this, it worked fine, but the eject motor seemed to really struggle. I got the drive out of the bracket, and found that it was dusty, but pretty clean compared to many of the drives I've seen. The first step is to remove the plastic bracket that lifts the upper read/write head out of the way when the disk is ejected. To remove it, you gently lift the small tab in the center and slide it towards to back of the drive. Next, I use tweezers to release the two
  22. While the parts were in the hydrogen peroxide getting the retrobrite treatment, I took the chassis over to my brother's house to sandblast the rusty part. My brother makes AR-15 lower receivers, so he has lots of great tools, such as a gigantic Haas mill. His shop is pretty great, he can make pretty much anything! The sandblasting cabinet worked great, but it is hard to see into. Here's what it looked like when I was done. He recommended not touching it or doing anything to clean it, "Just take it home, hit it with compressed air, and apply pri
  23. With a nice hot day and full sun available, it was time for some retrobrite! I won't get to the keyboard right now, but I can definitely get the Mac SE and mouse done. Here's the mouse before: They come apart super easily. Next, I did my usual cleaning. I always start with dawn dishwasher detergent and a toothbrush. After that, I scrub away imperfections with a wet paper towel and baking soda. The baking soda does remove a bit of texture if you scrub too hard, so I am careful to take it easy. The reality is that this Mac is in such great shape
  24. Finally back for another update on this Mac! Lots of progress to report. This week, I have a bin of hydrogen peroxide going for another Macintosh SE restoration that I'm doing, so I decided to knock retrobrite on this one out at the same time. Hydrogen peroxide in the quantities I need is a bit expensive ($40 or so), so I reuse it when I can (but it does seem to lose it's effectiveness after about a week). First, I popped off the back, and discharged the CRT per standard procedure. As usual, I didn't hear a "click" or anything. The first few times I did thi
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