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Iesca

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Everything posted by Iesca

  1. Another update: the new speaker drivers I ordered on ebay arrived recently and I was able to install them successfully! (When installing any new drivers, make sure that the red wire is on the left side for each one while you face the speaker assemblies as they would be installed in the iMac, at least for the Graphite iMac G3/400 DV SE). My only comment is that they are very loud, I had to turn the speakers down individually all the way from within the Sound control panel, otherwise, even with the master volume set to near minimum, they were quite blasting. Perhaps 4Ω is too low an impedan
  2. I can now confirm that all three of the iMac G3s are alive and well, but the third's revival was a bit more dramatic than the others, although it may perhaps point to the actual problem with these things (to someone more knowledgeable than myself). It took almost a week to start up stably. When it started turning on, at first all seemed well, but then there were snaps/pops and momentary distortions in the CRT raster. I was worried something was shorting, but I never caught it visually inside and it eventually stopped. (At this point it was not reliably staying on.) However, the display wo
  3. I can now confirm that one of the iMac G3/400s that I had previously revived started right up again after several days of being unplugged. This was the one that had had most of its capacitors replaced though, so I will check the 2nd one soon to compare. Meanwhile, the 3rd one has not been revived just yet, but I installed a fresh battery and reset the PMU, so hopefully that will speed things along. (It's possible it may have revived eventually without, but it has already been a few days).
  4. I really want to know too! I really feel like the PMU chip is to blame, but is it recalibrating or something? Who knows, but it really does take several days, whatever it is... And resetting the PMU by pressing that button by the RAM slots seems to have little effect, at least as far as I can tell. Currently letting the third sit over the weekend without resetting the PMU or even installing a new battery (currently empty).
  5. They are indeed magnetic, but it took more than a firm whack... Definitely glued on as well, but once separated from the original speaker drivers, they should hold on to the new ones with just the magnets.
  6. Just bought a pair the other day actually! The ones that people have linked elsewhere have angled terminals, and those won't fit inside the speaker bubbles from what I gather. Maybe should grab these too, since they only have one pair left currently... I was also able to chisel off the magnetic mounts from the old speakers from one of my units, so we'll see how they fit! Gosh, they are glued on super tight! D:
  7. I have now revived a second of the three iMac G3/400 slotloaders I acquired, using the plug-it-and-leave it method as described above. The second one, not having had its capacitors replaced at all, took a little bit longer, between 4-5 days. I can't say for sure if that's the reason, but I have the third plugged in now, so we shall see how long that one takes!
  8. I have not tried this just yet, but I will report my findings once I do!
  9. It lives! After cross-posting on the Mac Garden's Discord, a fellow user suggested that they had experienced the same thing, but that simply leaving the iMac plugged into the outlet for awhile seemed to resolve the power-on issue. I decided to give this a shot and, after a few days (with intermittent testing), it suddenly sprang to life today! At first it struggled to stay on past the Disk First Aid screen, but after waiting until later in the evening, it turned on—and stayed on! I've navigated around the old hard drive, even run a DVD, and it all seems to be working great. Hard drive is
  10. I'm having the same issue with my newly acquired iMac G3 DV SEs. I have acquired three of them that seem to have been stored for about 20 years inside of a warehouse (two in their original boxes), and which were used perhaps only a few times before being shelved. Unfortunately, all three have exhibited the symptoms as described by @IlikeTech whereby the CRT attempts to power up, and there's a pop in the speakers, but nothing else happens. I actually have replaced nearly every capacitor in one of the iMacs for its logic board, the PSU, the downconverter board, AND the CRT board. Having don
  11. Wow, getting it to work with 7.1.x would be a dream!
  12. @equant Did you end up having any luck with this?
  13. Thank you for the link!
  14. Alas it does not for me. If you found a link, please share.
  15. I have the same quantum 540S a mentioned above (a Quantum ProDrive LDS to be precise). What kind of jumpers should I use to assign the SCSI ID? Regular jumpers would be too tall for these pins. Also, an ID diagram would be helpful if anyone has one...
  16. I've had the chirping for awhile now in my Plus, it's driving me nuts. I've replaced so many components on the analog board, caps, resistors, diodes, transistors, ICs; I'm just at a loss. Even the axial caps on the logic board. Am I just gonna have to bite the bullet and buy one of those new flybacks for $100? And yet, when I completely disconnect the crt from the analog board, it continues to chirp.... As for the Plus's vinyl protector, I bought the plastic snaps recommended at some point in another thread, and they work great! (After cleaning off the tape residue)
  17. Has anybody rebuilt an iBook G4 battery pack? From the following article, opening the iBook G3's battery pack is relatively straightforward: https://www.instructables.com/id/Apple-Ibook-G3-battery-repair/ But no such luck for the G4's battery pack, which is sealed shut, rather closed with screws. If anybody has any advice on opening one, please let me know!
  18. Saved you both the trouble! HD20 Rodime Controller Board Electrolytic Capacitor List C38: 47µf 16v C41: 10µf 35v C42: 10µf 35v C43: 47µf 16v C46: 10µf 35v C48: 47µf 16v C49: 47µf 16v C50: 47µf 16v Total: 3X 10µf 35v 5X 47µf 16v (PS. I found HD Diag!)
  19. I just received these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Macintosh-128k-512k-Plus-Classic-SE-analog-board-Fasteners-Pushpin/264047221390 They appear to be very similar to the ones mentioned by @gpbonneau above. The ones I bought (which ship from the Netherlands) worked great with my Plus, and you don't need to buy a hundred of them at once!
  20. In searching around I found this document: http://www.bitsavers.org/pdf/apple/service/PN_072-0228_Apple_Service_Technical_Procedures_Macintosh_Family_Volume_One-Mar_1992.pdf On page 390 in the pdf, a table refers to the diagram on the previous page; item no. 2, part number 830-0270 "Rivet, Nylon Snap-In, Black" So that's what it was called internally anyway, maybe that will help! Nothing really comes up with a cursory google.
  21. Iesca

    M0110A Repair

    I haven't, I don't actually have a meter to check with. But the whole keyboard is dead, not just the ones I installed.
  22. A problem regarding my M0110A Mac Plus Keyboard... In anticipation of some new keyswitches I had ordered, I had taken out the broken keyswitches, which of course required some desoldering. After doing so, I managed to make one physically functional keyswitch out of the bits from the three I had removed, and I reinstalled it. Afterwards however, the keyboard stopped responding at all when hooked up to the Mac. I thought that maybe it was because a couple keyswitches were still missing from the board, so when the new ones arrived I installed them, as well as did a thorough cleaning of the boar
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