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Everything posted by MidnightCommando

  1. For what it's worth, there are now several guides on using Let's Encrypt with FreeBSD. It's not the nuisance it used to be. https://oddball.tech/ is running on lighttpd + freebsd/ppc and uses Let's Encrypt for SSL certificates. It also plays nicely with Classilla, so that's good. (Don't mind the landing page, if you actually go look, I haven't got anything fancier ready for public consumption yet.)
  2. Update: In the absence of more information, I pulled apart my own SE. Damn Apple and their weird ideas of parts. Get a ceramic disc capacitor of the type I specified, and replace that charred mess with it. Was in fact a capacitor, my bad. And then be ready to see if anything got fried elsewhere.
  3. Anonymous Freak! I beg to differ! The audio input on mostbeige macs is in fact a line-level input; that's why it uses the weird-ass long TRS for the PlainTalk microphones! Those mics have an inbuilt pre-amplifier to bring the microphone output to line level, the extra position on the connector is for 5V to power that. If you use a standard 3.5mm connection, the Mac will in fact take line-level with no issues
  4. "Somewhat suspect"... That's not a capacitor, it's a resistor. And it is /FUBAR/. My copy of the Mac SE Analog Board schematic says that C23 is a ceramic disc capacitor, rated .1uF 50V (the code on the capacitor would be 104F ...) between the 5V out and the GND. Is there another component name nearby, on the other side? Preferably beginning with an R or possibly a CR? Also, be prepared for the possibility that it might have cooked some other things in its dramatic failure.
  5. Congrats on the new G4. Isn't it wonderful that so many people share information freely on how to do this stuff?
  6. Let me look at the 6500 board I have here to see if I can identify the power circuitry - I have a sneaking suspicion it's using a normal off-the-shelf voltage regulator which could be adjusted with trivial effort, from memory.
  7. olePigeon: forget the sockets, solder the QFP EEPROMs down directly, then they'll be compatible with the ROMinator anyway? Alternatively, burn the ROMs and then solder 'em down, and don't screw up muahaha!
  8. 603ev in BGA package is found in: 6500/225 and faster, 1400/166, 3400c. Any of which would benefit from affordable G3 upgradeability these days, let's be real.
  9. If these are still going, I'd very much like a tangerine iBook. My kernel work isn't going to test itself Can you provide an idea of what shipping to Australia might cost?
  10. The 740 is pin- and code- compatible with the 603ev; the 750 (the G3 that Apple shipped in things) isn't... the 750 has on-die cache. A 740 should still whip a 603 cycle-for-cycle though. Can't find any places to source a PPC740L-GB366 though...
  11. Would the same principle work for replacing BGA 603ev with PPC 740? I investigated this as a possible upgrade route for the 6500 and 1400c a while back, but never got my 740 ICs...
  12. This is really solid work, sharpjon! If your endpoint is to create a replacement ROM, you're in luck, as the Macintosh is an extensively documented computer; while there may indeed only really be one way to make some things work, it should also be pretty possible to build that from first principles. At that point, however, you may not want to bother with Newlib; any boot code you write is going to have the sole task of initialising devices and chain-loading a boot block from somewhere else (in the case of a 128/512/Plus, probably the floppy drive), which simplifies things a lot. You may want
  13. Boards are boards are boards, insofar as the techniques needed for repair. If you're wanting someone else to recap for you, I'd be willing to do the work, for the cost of parts + time. If the capacitor has leaked, the best thing to do is wash the residue off with isopropyl alcohol and replace the capacitor with a modern tantalum cap. Check for leakage all over the board - where you can - it may not be terribly visible, but under strong light you should see a thin film that looks "different" to the rest of the surface of the board.
  14. May I suggest to you, asaggynoodle, that you consider using Noctua NT-H1 thermal interface instead of AS5? I've found that NT-H1 is comparably priced and better at conducting heat, to the point where it's now my standard TIM for pretty much everything. That may give you just a little extra headroom for overclocking, I think!
  15. I'd suggest freshening up a few solder joints on the analogue board if a simple thud was enough to fix the issue. Intermittent contact might appear like this, in which case it could just be cracking of the solder joints. Don't use lead-free solder, it's more brittle and will cause problems down the track.
  16. It'll work with PC133 RAM just fine, but it'll run at PC100 speeds. At least, that's been my experience with the iBooks. Also, certain types of 512MB SO-DIMM don't work in those iBooks. I think they're the ones that are "Low Density", but I can't recall correctly.
  17. I'd strongly recommend just buying the lot of 40, if you can spare the change. You'll find a use for 'em again, or someone like you will make this request and you can say "I have a few lying around, I can send you some", or you can use them for cat decoration
  18. Conformal coating can typically be removed chemically, should replacement of components later be required. There's a guide on it here for the interested.
  19. It's fine. As they're brand new, and you're measuring on a voltmeter (So there's no load on the batteries), it's natural you'll see a few millivolts over
  20. I don't suppose we know if the tiny!SCSI2SD that used to exist for PowerBooks is ever going to be remade? I can't imagine that the SCSI drives in the 1x0 2x0 5x0 machines are going to last terribly much longer. I do know that some of the later ones came with an Apple-manufactured bridge, but I also can't imagine that said bridges are terribly plentiful.
  21. These two suggest that it may be theoretically possible, using the Mac Plus ROMs with the 128k, to use the HD20 ... but I can't find any evidence that it's been tried yet.
  22. Looking at the board picture you posted, I believe it is indeed possible, but you'd probably need to replace a few parts, including the smaller of the two E-I transformers. Without the thing in front of me, I can't determine that completely though, so caveat lector, and undertake any modifications in consultation with someone grounded (ha!) in mains appliance work. If you can find a TV or Hi-Fi repairman to talk to, that might be worth the consultation fee. Edit: possibly also the bigger of the transformers, I think. Derp.
  23. WV = "working voltage" iirc. As with voltage on any other caps, make sure that the replacement is rated for the same or higher.
  24. I find the Saft LS-14250 to be most reliable, personally, followed by the Tadirans. Battery quality is much of a muchness, the only really important question is how much damage they'll do if they leak, and how fast it'll happen.
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